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EDITORIAL


January 2023


January 2023 cosmeticsbusiness.com


INGREDIENTS Pushing organisms


EXTREME


publicity How to avoid influencer fraud


to their limits Bad


Alternatives to plastic and Cellophane


THE GIFT WRAP CUTBACK


Scenting trouble


Perfumery and the climate crisis


cosmeticsbusiness.com


Pop culture How pop-ups levelled up Editor Julia Wray


Contributors Sarah Parsons Amanda Pauley Alessandro Carrara


Subeditor/Contributor Austyn King Art Editor Sibylla Duffy Production Manager Charlotte Alldis Head of Production & Marketing Ross Murdoch Editorial Scientific Advisor John Woodruff


HPCi Media Limited Natraj Building, The Tanneries 55 Bermondsey Street London SE1 3XG United Kingdom Tel +44 20 7193 1279 Fax +44 20 3318 5305 Email cosmeticsbusiness@hpcimedia.com


Editorial +44 20 7193 1878 juliaw@hpcimedia.com


Advertising +44 207 193 6690 trystanh@hpcimedia.com


Subscriptions +44 20 7193 1279 subscriptions@hpcimedia.com


Subscribe to Cosmetics Business hpcimedia.com/cosmetics-business each subscriber receives... Cosmetics Business magazine Cosmetics Business Trend Report Pure Beauty magazine Premium content on cosmeticsbusiness.com email subscriptions@hpcimedia.com


Cosmetics Business magazine ISSN 2634-8586 (Print) is published monthly by HPCi Media Limited, Natraj Building, The Tanneries, 55 Bermondsey Street, London, SE1 3XG, UK. Material may be reproduced only by prior arrangement and with due acknowledgement to Cosmetics Business magazine.


©HPCi Media Limited ISSN 2634-8586 (Print)


Turning 2023 trends into dollars


Cometh the hour, cometh the trends forecast. In the closing weeks of 2022, the editorial team’s inboxes were flooded with exciting – and occasionally outré – beauty industry predictions for the next 12 months. Membership brand Beauty Pie harnessed recent


Google search data to anticipate demand for an ingénue aesthetic, as typified by ‘doe eye’ and ballerina-inspired ‘coquette’ make-up looks. It also flagged layered hairstyles, including ‘butterfly hair’ (combining short and long layers for movement and body); ‘octopus hair’ (short layers on top, thin lengths underneath); and their more extreme cousin ‘jellyfish hair’ (a head-hugging layer with longer lengths around the perimeter).


Pinterest, meanwhile, predicted a colourful take on two-tone tresses, called ‘gemini hair’, with searches for ‘pink and lavender hair’ upticking on its platform.


And market research firm Mintel believes continued medicalisation of beauty will promote use of ingredient-led products, while sexual wellness and ‘hormone wellness’ will flourish under the self care banner. In the TikTok era, it is common for trends to quickly surface and sink, or at least evolve, as ‘donut skin’ morphs into ‘dolphin skin’ and beyond. But while there is hype, there is opportunity, as Unilever’s heritage brand Vaseline discovered last year amid a surge in ‘slugging’-inspired sales. With 2023’s megatrends laid out before us, which brands have the products to capture the public’s imagination and spend?


Printed by Stephens & George Print Group


The paper used in this magazine is obtained from manufacturers who operate within internationally recognised standards. The paper is sourced from sustainable, properly managed forestation.


Julia Wray, Editor COSMETICS BUSINESS


cosmeticsbusiness.com


January 2023 3


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