FRAGRANCE INGREDIENTS
“What we do is create synthetic accords to replace a given natural ingredient,” Iberchem’s Ripoll tells Cosmetics Business. “This is what we did, for instance, with guaiac balsam. “In addition, to the benefit of our customers, we avoid the use of any embattled ingredients in new developments and favour the use of natural ingredients coming from sustainable sources; our latest collaboration in that sense is with our cardamom oil provider Nelixia.”
For CPL Aromas, the answer to such issues hinges on increasing its palette of responsibly- sourced ingredients. “We’re increasing our palette of those materials that have been upcycled, so we’re not wasting anything, we’re actually using that waste in a way that is productive for our industry,” de Vogel tells Cosmetics Business.
“Then there is biochemistry: we’re using enzymes to create new molecules, which is a very sustainable way of doing things, and you’re more or less guaranteed that supply is going to keep coming for many years to come. Also, often these ingredients are biodegradable, which is good.” Maruitte likewise cites biotechnology as a solution used by Sozio.
“Our metier has evolved a lot in recent years and, more than developing synthetic substitutes to replace natural materials, manufacturers are working much more on setting up the synthesis of raw materials by bio-enzymatic routes, through biotechnology,” he says. “We spoke above about sclaréol (a component of clary sage), used for a long time as an intermediate in the synthesis of Ambroxan; today, many manufacturers have developed synthesis from biotechnologies (sugar, for example) and are moving away from the need for clary sage. “This new way of synthesis answers today’s market needs and helps with finding new sustainable sources.”
A creative, sustainable approach used by CPL Aromas to reimagine the odour of embattled materials – or any materials – is headspace analysis. Offered under the company’s AromaSpace technology platform, de Vogel calls headspace analysis “a nice way of recreating nature, without damaging nature”.
The process, she explains, involves placing a glass bell over something whose scent you’d like to recreate, like a living rose – “you don’t touch it, you don’t harvest it” – which is attached to a rubber tube. Air is sucked through the bell, into the tube and through a series of carbon sticks. The fragrance molecules get stuck in the carbon, to which solvent is then applied to release those molecules. The molecules may then be analysed using gas chromatography to “tell us exactly the components of that smell – and we can recreate that”, says de Vogel.
SMOOTHING THE PATH Ultimately, as IFRA UK’s Hipgrave notes: “The fragrance industry is still a thriving and dynamic industry that will work hard to ensure consumers do not suffer from these macro-challenges.” Indeed, perfumers are keen to deploy their creativity to cushion any blows to consumers or indeed clients in the wider cosmetics space that rely on their aromas.
“As perfumers, it is our duty to be creative enough to find solutions that are sustainable,” de Vogel stresses. “If you cannot use a certain raw material, be it a synthetic or a natural, you should rethink the way you’re doing your work and find new ways of achieving certain effects in your fragrances.
“It might not give the same smell, but it might achieve a similar effect in a fragrance – and then you create something new and have a new direction to go in. “We should all be thinking that way”
THE LUXURY FRAGRANCE BRAND’S INSIGHT
Ormonde Jayne founder, Linda Pilkington, shares her experience
We have, in the past, experienced problems with supplying some of our ingredients, but that hasn’t got any connection to sustainability or environmental concerns, nor human activities. It’s mainly because we are looking for ingredients not widely used in the perfume industry and we usually buy from growers with small, family-run businesses. Sometimes, their crop isn’t as good as they thought it would be and therefore we don’t receive the amount of oils that we had ordered. We sell these perfumes exclusively at our
boutique or online, rather than a worldwide launch, so that our clients can’t be disappointed. If people get to know these perfumes worldwide
cosmeticsbusiness.com
and they try and buy them at our boutique, we find it a lot easier to manage their expectations as we can let them know personally when it will be available, which is a part of our customer service. There aren’t any ingredients that I avoid, because
everything has an accepted quantity so nothing is completely off the market. Oakmoss was for a while, but now it’s made a comeback and we use it in the accepted quantity, and it’s spectacular. We launched Evernia last year with oakmoss. I don’t say no to anything, but I do look at the quantities that are acceptable and take it from there.
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