I glance nervously through the steamy window of our cat track machine. The ‘cat’ — a tank- skidoo hybrid — is perched high on a horribly thin ledge straddling North Macedonia and Kosovo. I take some comfort in the skills of its experienced driver, Aljush, who looks like he might double up as a decent mountain rescuer if things take a turn for the worse. Reversing, it seems, is not an option, so


there’s only one thing for it: we ski. In fact, this feels like a relief, despite the steepness of the slope. Our group are all experienced at cat skiing, the term that describes accessing remote mountain regions in a vehicle with tank-like ‘caterpillar tracks’. Our cat can take up to 12 skiers and is remarkably agile and manoeuvrable, except on this occasion, apparently. “It’s like heli-skiing, but cheaper and more relaxed,” my fellow passenger, Luke had noted just before we’d become wedged in a snowdrift on a 45-degree precipice. Unscheduled stop aside, I was itching


From left: The cat and skiers at a base station in the Shar Mountains; the group gets ready to descend after being dropped off by the cat on a ridge high up in the Shar Mountains


to ski — the ride up from the tiny resort of Popova Sapka in the Shar Mountains of North Macedonia had offered up some dramatic South Balkan scenery. But now, the views across the vast mountain range reach right across to Albania, and the terrain beneath me looks decidedly inviting, with fresh powder snow despite the spring-like weather. And we have the whole mountain to ourselves. Our cat tour company, Shar Adventures, was


established five years ago by local skier and mountaineer Metodi ‘Meto’ Chilimanov. Also our guide for the day, with his bandana, beard


and big energy, Meto is like a cross between a 1970s rock star, spiritual guru and mountain goat on skis. He’s motivation embodied and works with a team of expert ski guides, two allocated to each group of 12 skiers. We make our way down to one of the lower tracks that crisscross over 30sq miles of terrain rolling out south-westwards from our base at the Scardus Hotel. Some of the surrounding peaks rise to above 8,530ft, and even though it’s late March, there’s snow right down to resort level. While we take in the view, as if by magic,


our cat machine appears, freed from its snowy prison. And Meto is in an exploring mood, so we push further west, up another ridge, before skiing deep into the valley below. The cat machine never far behind, we explore yet another new valley. We press on, trying to beat the spring sunshine before it melts the snow. Each time our cat departs, with its churning metal tracks and powerful engine, the suddenly contrast of silence brings the wilderness more sharply into focus. Shar Adventures attracts skiers and


snowboarders who want to experience serious backcountry terrain. Its fleet of four cats can handle around 40 people a day, usually a broad mix of travellers from Scandinavia, Central Europe, the UK and US, most of them skiing for at least four days. Despite much of the country being mountainous, North Macedonia has limited skiing areas, with just a few small ski stations across the country. Popova Sapka is the largest, yet it only has three chairlifts. A journey aboard one chairlift, purchased in 1984


WINTER SPORTS 2022/23 75


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