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Editor’s letter


Editorial Director: Maria Pieri Editor: Pat Riddell Deputy Editor: Amelia Duggan Commissioning Editor: Connor McGovern Senior Editor: Sarah Barrell Assistant Editor: Angela Locatelli Executive Editor: Glen Mutel Associate Editor: Nicola Trup Digital Editor: Josephine Price


Art Director: Becky Redman Art Editors: Lauren Atkinson-Smith (maternity leave), Lauren Gamp Senior Designers: Kelly McKenna, Dean Reynolds Designers: Rosie Klein, Jo Dovey Picture Editor:Olly Puglisi


Branded Content Manager: Flora Neighbour Project Editors: Jo Fletcher-Cross, Zane Henry, Megan Hughes, Farida Zeynalova, Becci Knowles, Sara-Jane Armstrong Project Assistant: Sacha Scoging Editorial Admin Assistant: Tabitha Grainge Head of Sub Editors: Hannah Doherty (maternity leave) Acting Head of Sub Editors: Olivia McLearon Sub Editors: Chris Horton, Nick Mee, Ben Murray Intern: Matthew Figg


Operations Manager: Seamus McDermott Digital Marketing Manager: Prabhjot Chadha Head of Events: Sabera Sattar


Marketing Manager — Events: Angelique Mannan Production Manager: Daniel Gregory Production Controller: Joe Mendonca


Commercial Director: Matthew Midworth Head of Sales: Phil Castle Head of Campaigns: William Allen Campaigns Team: Jamie Barnish, James Bendien, Bob Jalaf, Kevin Killen, Gabriela Milkova, Mark Salmon, Oscar Williams Head of National Geographic Traveller — The Collection: Danny Pegg


Chief Executive: Anthony Leyens Managing Director: Matthew Jackson Sales Director: Alex Vignali


Head of Commercial Strategy: Chris Debbinney-Wright APL Business Development Team: Adam Fox, Cynthia Lawrence


Office Manager: Hayley Rabin


Head of Finance: Ryan McShaw Credit Manager: Craig Chappell Accounts Manager: Siobhan Grover Accounts Assistants: Ramona McShaw


Sarah Barrell, Senior editor NATGEOTR AVE LU K


National Geographic Traveller (UK) is published by APL Media Limited, Unit 310, Highgate Studios, 53-79 Highgate Road, London NW5 1TL nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel Editorial T: 020 7253 9906. editorial@natgeotraveller.co.uk Photography T: 020 7253 9906. photography@natgeotraveller.co.uk Sales/Admin T: 020 7253 9909. F: 020 7253 9907. sales@natgeotraveller.co.uk Subscriptions T: 01858 438787. natgeotraveller@subscription.co.uk


National Geographic Traveller (UK) is published by APL Media Ltd under license from National Geographic Partners, LLC. For more information contact natgeo.com/info. Their entire contents are protected by copyright 2022 and all rights are reserved. Reproduction without prior permission is forbidden. Every care is taken in compiling the contents of the magazine, but the publishers assume no responsibility in the effect arising therefrom. Readers are advised to seek professional advice before acting on any information which is contained in the magazine. Neither APL Media Ltd or National Geographic Traveller magazine accept any liability for views expressed, pictures used or claims made by advertisers.


Is this the most hotly anticipated ski season in recent memory? After widespread travel restrictions were lifted earlier this year, winter sports enthusiasts look set to return to the slopes with gusto. If it’s time to take that long-planned trip, we’ve got some exciting options from heli-skiing and cat-skiing to freeride camps and Michelin-starred mountain dining. And if that big trip to North America now looks tempting, take a look at our special feature on p. 56. Or choose an epic adventure closer to home: our Nordics feature on p. 32 explores the raft of new trips to the Arctic, including a Norwegian polar challenge in terrain that shaped Shackleton, Scott and Amundsen. If you prefer your ski trips a little less gung-ho, we’ve got all you


need to plan a snowy weekend in Courmayeur, a guide to the newest bars and restaurants in Tignes, and the best places to ski and stay in Austria, France, Italy and Switzerland. Plus, expert reviews of the latest ski kit and insight on everything from accessible ski resorts to new sports training apps, and the latest books to enjoy in the downtime between those downhills. Happy snow season!


National Geographic Partners


Editor-in-Chief, NG Media: Nathan Lump General Manager, NG Media: David Miller


International Editions


Editorial Director: Amy Kolczak Deputy Editorial Director: Darren Smith Editor: Leigh Mitnick Translation Manager: Beata Nas


Editors: CHINA Sophie Huang; GERMANY Werner Siefer; GREECE Kyriakos Emmanouilidis; INDIA Lakshmi Sankaran; ITALY Marco Cattaneo; LATIN AMERICA Roberto Moran; NETHERLANDS Robbert Vermue; POLAND Agnieszka Franus; RUSSIA Ivan Vasin; SOUTH KOREA Bo-yeon Lim; SPAIN Josan Ruiz; TURKEY Zeynep Sipahi


Copyright © 2022 National Geographic Partners, LLC. All Rights Reserved. National Geographic Traveller and the Yellow Border Design are registered trademarks of National Geographic Society and used under license. Printed in the UK.


1145 17th St. NW, Washington, DC 20036-4688, USA


National Geographic Partners returns 27% of its proceeds to the nonprofit National Geographic Society to fund work in the areas of science, exploration, conservation and education.


International Publishing


Senior Vice President: Yulia P. Boyle Senior Director: Ariel Deiaco-Lohr Senior Manager: Rossana Stella


Headquarters CONTENTS


7 | SNAPSHOT A tribute to extreme skier Hilaree Nelson 8 | BIG PICTURE Ristafallet waterfall, Sweden 11 | HOTELS OPENINGS The most stylish new places to stay 13 | FOOD Megève 15 | SKI WEAR Kit rental 16 | IN STYLE Ski gear 18 | INSIDE GUIDE Tignes 21 | BOOKS Titles for snow lovers 22 | MEET THE ADVENTURER Polar explorer, Wendy Searle 24 | WEEKENDER Courmayeur 31 | COMPETITION Win a week in Les Arcs 32 | NORDICS From aurora hunting to an Arctic challenge


44 | FREERIDE SKI Engelberg 48 | WHAT’S NEW Verbier 56 | NORTH AMERICA Mountain adventures in big backcountry 68 | FRANCE Discover the country’s lesser-known resorts 74 | MACEDONIA Go cat-skiing on Europe’s wildest peaks 80 | AUSTRIA This season’s best new hotels and resorts 86 | IN PICTURES Rural culture in Switzerland’s Valais canton 92 | ASK THE EXPERTS Top apps, accessible ski and more 96 | HOT TOPIC Are low altitude ski resorts sustainable? 98 | THROWBACK Taking it back to the 1948 Winter Olympics


ON THE COVER: Alpe di Siusi valley, Italy. Image: AWL Images 4 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.CO.UK/TRAVEL


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