IMAGE: MARCO VAROLI


WEEKENDER TOP FIVE


Foodie experiences


PEAK OF TASTE March 2023 sees edition two of this annual celebration of all things gourmet. Up to 10 foodie events fill the month, likely to include the popular high-altitude dinner where guests enjoy aperitivo and nibbles at Punta Helbronner before descending for a banquet at mid-station Pavillon. courmayeurmontblanc.it


MOUNTAIN GOURMET SKI EXPERIENCE A spring weekend utopia for lovers of skiing and fine food, and one of Peak of Taste’s blue riband events (16-19 March 2023). The likes of Marcus Wareing and Paul Ainsworth have appeared in previous years; Clare Smyth is already confirmed for 2023. momentumski.com


LA CHAUMIÈRE This is both a casual bistro serving pizzas and pastas, and a gourmet restaurant hosting fine dining, all set in a cosy chalet where giant windows sparkle with the Aosta Valley’s shimmering lights. Try the fondue of Fontina cheese with egg and black truffle or arctic char with dill mayo and apple jelly. lachaumiere.it


MAISON VIEILLE At the top of Maison Vieille chairlift, this alpine refuge has Monte Bianco as a backdrop to its minimalist mustard-coloured walls. A perfect spot to kick off the skis, sip rosé or tuck into platters of local salami, hams, cheeses, focaccia or a trilogy of homemade pastas and polenta with porcini. maisonvieille.com


CHIECCO This homely wooden mountain hut is where owners Anna and Paolo serve a range of delicacies from Monterosso anchovies to Fassona beef and only the finest Italian wines. Save room for the strudel. Accessible on foot or skis from the Checrouit cable- car. T: 00 39 338 700 3035


DAY 2 TAKE TO THE SKIES


Morning Hotel transfers or public buses drop skiers out at Entrèves for the ride of a lifetime on Skyway. Board one of the sleek, shiny spaceship-like aerial trams and there will be no need to jostle for viewing position. Each vessel regularly rotates completely so all passengers enjoy maximum alpine drama during the 7,100ft climb. Explore the Hangar 2,173 museum at the mid station, dedicated to the extraordinary engineering feats of cable-car systems. The top station terrace at Punta Helbronner gives a reach- out-and-touch view of Monte Bianco. Then ride back down: only extreme off-piste descents start from here on the Italian side. Check out the Valleé Blanche itinerary to Chamonix, in France, as an easier alternative (see below).


Afternoon Brave Skyway’s Sky Vertigo walk or take in the exhibition of mountain crystals and perhaps a glass of Prosecco at Bistrot Panoramic. From Skyway base, grab what some consider the best pizza in Courmayeur at Pizzeria du Tunnel or head directly back to the slopes, above Zerotta, via the Val Veny cable-car to Pré de Pascale. Or burn the carbs at Val Ferret on 12 miles of cross-country ski trails through forests of larch, Scots pine and silver fir, the peaks of Mont Dolent, Dente del Gigante and Grandes Jorasses peering over the tree- lined foothills below. Rehydrate at Hotel Lavachey, which has welcomed guests since 1898. Rental equipment, lessons and trail maps are available at Courmayeur Ski & Snowboard School.


Evening Kick off aprés at La Bouche, where mixologist Valentina conjures cocktails from mountain herbs, flowers and fruits alongside small bites. The covered outdoor space is where DJs or bands create chilled mood music. The half-mile pedestrianised Via Roma starts just north with Bar Roma and its huge aperitivi table brimming with charcuterie, pizza slices, cheeses, and salads included in the price of your drink. Sup a few beers and you can eat substantially enough to constitute dinner. A younger crowd enjoys the street’s lively American Bar, while intimate Le Privé is the place for negronis a deux. Feast on Mocetta sausage and potato salad at nearby restaurant Cadran Solaire, run by the Garin family, founders of Auberge de la Maison.


A charcuterie plate served at La Chaumière bistro


WINTER SPORTS 2022/23


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