IMAGES: KAROLINA WIERCIGROCH


Spa hotels TOP THREE


HOTEL ROYAL GOLF This five-star boasts the rare winter indulgence of an outdoor heated pool. The Royal Private Spa has massage suites and Turkish baths dedicated to couples, while The Gourmet Ski Experience (see Foodie Experiences) launches here with an extravagant buffet. Doubles from £260. hotelroyalegolf.com


AUBERGE DE LA MAISON With heaters and reclining chairs with blankets, Auberge de la Maison’s decked terrace helps guests make the most of its prime Monte Bianco views. This four-star, alpine retreat in Entrèves has hay bath spa treatments, hot tubs, pools adorned with candles and Mont Blanc- branded sparkling wine. Doubles from £260 B&B. aubergemaison.it


DAY ONE HIT THE SLOPES


Morning Protein load with a plate of fried eggs and prosciutto at three-star, family-run Hotel Bouton d’Or. Owner Patrizia also bakes pastries for the breakfast buffet. Husband Andrea shuttles guests to the cable-car or gondola at nearby Dolonne. If renting ski equipment, wear suitable footwear for aprés- ski. Both lifts arrive at the ski hub of Plan Checrouit, where you’ll find meeting places for ski schools, a choice of restaurants with great views and the convenient Ski In rental shop with overnight storage for skis and boots. The 60 miles of ski terrain across the Checrouit and Val Veny sectors has predominantly wide easy blue and red runs, but guides or instructors are advisable to explore the steeper slopes off the Youla or Arp cable-cars.


Afternoon Strong intermediate skiers can time an hour-long, noon descent from Youla cable-car, through the Vesses couloir with views over Val Veny and Miage glacier, to arrive in time for lunch on the Zerotta plateau. The north facing aspect preserves snow quality over the 3,200 vertical feet of ski terrain, with moguls carved into the narrower stretches of the couloir. Just before the plateau, near Zerotta’s chairlift, bacon-like aromas tantalise the tastebuds. Suckling pigs roast over the fire pit on the terrace of Capitan des Alpes. This dish is a favourite of Heston Blumenthal, co-curator of Courmayeur’s annual Mountain Gourmet Ski Experience. Veggie offerings include chestnut and blue cheese gnocchi or fondue of nettle ravioli.


Evening The cable-car back to Courmayeur’s resort base runs until midnight, so on-mountain aprés-ski is de rigueur. Bust some moves to live music on the Super G terrace at Plan Checrouit. The party scene suits all ages. For something a little less demanding on the legs, sit back and sip an Aperol spritz on the terrace of chic La Loge du Massif. Heaters and sumptuous chairs with sheepskin throws make watching the sun set over the Gran Paradiso National Park a luxury. As the afterglow fades across these Pennine Alps, head inside to the fireplace, and perhaps grab a dinner menu; wild boar ragu is all the rave here. A handful of piste- side restaurants, within easy walk of the cable-car, stay open for dinner — but reservations are essential.


MAISON SAINT JEAN This cosy four-star hotel in Courmayeur’s centre, rich in wood beams, lush leather and local stone, is where, due to specialist refrigeration that sucks air from bottles, proprietor Aldo proudly serves even the finest wines by the glass. The spa hosts a gym, sauna and relaxation area overlooking the indoor pool. Doubles from £145 B&B. msj.it


From left: The view on Mont Blanc from Entrèves; a mountain-backed street in Courmayeur village


WINTER SPORTS 2022/23 25


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