For a few hours every evening, otherwise- tranquil lake towns like Limone sul Garda — which leans dramatically against an exposed rock face — and Malcesine become hives of activity. In the latter, there’s no better way to spend the evening than sitting back in the waterfront Piazza Guglielmo Marconi, sipping a glass of regional wine — a fresh Lugana white, perhaps — and watching remote houses light up on the hills by the shore. The dinner of choice is simple and hearty; familiar dishes like penne with carbonara sauce, freshly sprinkled with tangy pecorino cheese, are perfect fuel for the next day’s thrills.


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