IMAGE: ALAMY
SAMOËNS
Left: A limestone mountain peak at Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval, near Samoëns in the eastern Giffre Valley
Follow in the stonemasons’ footsteps
stonecutter François Mugnier. “He was also commissioned to carve a coat of arms,” Nora says, “but there was a dispute over his fee, so he left the design blank.” Nearby stand the tall, wrought-iron gates
guarding La Jaÿsinia, a botanic garden commissioned by local entrepreneur Marie- Louise Cognacq-Jaÿ in 1906. She picked an enormous limestone cliff as the location for the gardens, which had to be carved, moulded and shaped over three years by some 300 workers. We climb the steep stairs chiselled into the rock face, past plants and trees sourced from all over the world, including a Californian sequoia and a cedar of Lebanon, until we arrive at a petite chapel near the top. It’s one of nine churches scattered about the
valley, all built by local stonemasons. “Marie- Louise would bring her goats up to graze on these rocks while she looked out,” says Nora as we gaze over the valley, washed in late afternoon sunshine, as Marie-Louise would have done. “That’s why they built this chapel.” Despite the gardens’ haphazard appearance, planting was meticulously planned to allow for blockbuster views such as this. That evening, I dine at La Fandioleuse,
a tiny, packed restaurant that’s been serving an unfathomable variety of crepes for the last 45 years, all of them listed on the menu in
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Mourmé. I order Le Pèrlu, meaning ‘the cat’, a savoury pancake folded and stuffed with soft goat’s cheese, pine nuts and olive oil. Owner Marie Delesmillières says the names were a homage to her brother-in-law, who spent time researching the language. “There was obviously the family connection,” she says as she pours crepe mixture onto a sizzling galettière, “but I also did it to honour the stonemasons and the town’s history.” Before leaving, I stop by Pierre’s to say
goodbye. I find him standing outside his house by one of his most impressive sculptures. “This was by far my most challenging piece,” he says. “It took me years to create it.” He encourages me to gently push the 440lb Atlantean stone globe, which the breeze is slowly spinning on a thin film of water. As it starts turning in the opposite direction, I realise what a wonderful tribute it is. Despite changes — of direction, of generations — it remains set in stone, like the legacy of Pierre and so many frahans before him.
HOW TO DO IT A number of airlines fly direct from cities in the UK to Geneva in around 1h40m. From there, it takes around 1h30m to reach Samoëns by bus. Five-star Alexane has doubles from €152 (£131), room only, with a two- night minimum stay.
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DISCOVER THE NINE CHAPELS OF SAMOËNS Hop on an e-bike and pedal along winding mountain roads to Samoëns’ nine ancient chapels. These tiny stone churches sit scattered throughout the Giffre Valley, most of them built by stonemasons during the 17th century. They not only showcase the stonemasons’ skills but their travels, too; many feature the kind of bulbous bell towers often found in Austria, for example. They’re usually closed to the public, but join a guided tour organised via the tourist office for a chance to peek inside.
WALK ALONG THE SAMOËNS SCULPTURE TRAIL Over the years, Samoëns has hosted a number of festivals celebrating its history, inviting stonecutters from across France and beyond. Participants were given a block of local limestone, a theme and one week to chisel, carve and cleave their slab of rock. You can see their works on two separate self- guided walking trails — one in the heart of town, the second in the surrounding countryside — showcasing nearly 80 different sculptures.
EXPLORE THE FRAHANS’ LIMESTONE CLIFFS The limestone-rich mountains of Samoëns are peppered with caves, tunnels and waterfalls, providing the perfect playground for amateur and experienced speleologists. The most dramatic is Gouffre Jean Bernard, one of the deepest caves in the world at 5,288ft below ground. Discover stalactites, stalagmites, draperies and more on a guided expedition.
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