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IMAGE: ALAMY


WEEKENDER


Mountain refuges TOP THREE


LÀ HAUT Set in the Massif des Bauges Regional Nature Park, this is a mountain refuge dressed up as a chic chalet, complete with a barrel-shaped sauna. Opt for the Shelters Experience to sleep inside a metal shelter repurposed from polar expeditions. lahaut.net


REFUGE DE LA POINTE PERCÉE Originally built in 1928, this is a mountain refuge through and through, so expect shared dorm rooms and communal dining. It’s a three-hour hike from Le Grand-Bornand but worth it for the sunsets on nearby Pic de Jallouvre alone. refugelapointepercee. ffcam.fr


CHALET SISAR Accessed via a dirt track through the forest, this renovated old farm sits on the Beauregard plateau, high above the village of La Clusaz. There are five bedrooms sleeping up to 12, a huge south-facing terrace and myriad trails right on the doorstep. ovonetwork.com


DAY TWO MOUNTAIN DRIVES & MIGHTY PEAKS


Above: Cows grazing in the Alpine meadows around Le Grand-Bornand


Morning After a day on the lake, it’s time to head into the mountains, and while it’s possible to get around by bus, renting a car means stopping whenever a view catches your eye. Take a pit stop in the village of Manigod, a 30-minute drive from Annecy, where the Lo Garâjo coffeeshop has unbeatable views of the Aravis massif as well as a wine cellar, craft beers, a bookstore and a boutique. Continue over the Col de la Croix Fry into La Clusaz before climbing back up to Le Grand- Bornand — a spectacular drive on winding Alpine roads. A lunch of Reblochon cheese and blackberry tart is served at La Clé des Annes on the Col des Annes, where ingredients are largely sourced from the restaurant’s own farm. logarajo.com la-cle-des-annes.fr


Afternoon Walk off your meal exploring the surrounding Alpine meadow on marked footpaths, where the silence is broken only by the occasional ringing of a cow bell. For a gentle and panoramic stroll, head to Les Terres Rouges restaurant and loop back via the Fenil farm. Alternatively, allow at least two hours for the six-mile round trek from the Col des Annes to the Gramusset refuge at the base of Pointe Percée, the Aravis’ highest peak at 2,750m. When you start getting tired, drive down to Le Grand-Bonard to recharge at the cosy Shed Cafe. One of the latest additions to the village, it serves coffee, homemade smoothies and sweet treats — as well as beers, depending on your mood. shedcafe.fr


Evening In 2000, a group of artists joined forces to celebrate Le Grand- Bonard’s 2,000 inhabitants and 2,000 cows grazing on pastures at 6,560ft (2,000m). Aptly called The Cow Trail, the works are dotted around the village and include sculptures, murals and photo installations. Keep an eye out as you make your way to Confins des Sens, a stone-and-wood affair with a terrace facing the Aravis. It’s the place for mountain food with a gourmet twist: partners for more than 20 years, chefs Anthony Barrucand and Jean-Sébastien Faber change the menu seasonally, but expect everything from scallops with butternut squash, citrus and honey to veal with parsley sabayon and potatoes. restaurant-grand-bornand.com


ALPINE 2024 25


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