54 • Food & drink — cooking at home Pure comfort
Heather Taylor and Nicola Trup take a look at global cuisines and round up the best books for a culinary journey
TOP PICK The Irish Cook Book by Jp McMahon
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In this ambitious tome, Jp McMahon — founder of the Galway Food Festival — sets out to discover and define Irish food. Te chef, restaurateur and author explores the rich culinary heritage of the Emerald Isle, uncovering recipes that date back millennia and portray a diverse food culture. A thick porridge with stewed apples and honey nods to the diet of the Medieval monks, while a nutty spelt with leeks harks back to a staple Bronze Age meal. Te potato, an ingredient so pivotal to Irish cuisine, is here in all its comforting forms: simmered in seawater, mashed into a rich colcannon, roasted with goose fat, and, of course, grated into boxty pancakes and fried until golden. You’ll also find an array of dishes that celebrate Ireland’s bountiful larder, such as oysters with wild garlic butter, cockles in samphire and lamb with samphire and cockles. Te book not only features recipes to add to your repertoire, but a hearty dose of Irish history and culture, too. £35, Phaidon
At Home & In Te Garden • Sunday 24 May 2020 MORE OF THE BEST
TASTE OF TRADITION Falastin by Sami Tamimi and Tara Wigley Co-authors Sami Tamimi and Tara Wigley
pay homage to Palestinian food culture in this volume, which offers a fresh take on recipes the authors discovered on their travels throughout Sami’s homeland — all made accessible for home cooks. Look out for dishes such as falafel laced with sumac and a sticky, lemony chicken traybake. £26, Ebury
IN THE VALLEY Sun and Rain by Ana Roš In this collection of recipes, essays and photos, Slovenian
chef Ana Roš tells the story of her life, as well as discussing the landscape and environment that have inspired her cooking. Based in the Soča Valley, in the shadow of the Julian Alps, Ana draws extensively on locally sourced ingredients, making use of everything from trout to foraged herbs. £39.95, Phaidon
PLATTER UP Share by Theo A. Michaels As the title suggests, this book is all about dishes made
for sharing. Many of the 70 recipes have a Mediterranean or Middle Eastern slant to them, from the smoky aubergine shakshuka to the seafood souvlaki. The book also includes tips on assembling platters of cheese and charcuterie, with pointers on presentation and garnishes. £16.99, Ryland Peters & Small
DESERT DELIGHTS Cooking in Marfa by Virginia Lebermann and Rocky Barnette Although it has a
population of just 2,000, the small Texan town of Marfa is home to almost two-dozen art galleries and a thriving food scene. Virginia Lebermann and Rocky Barnette are co-owners of the Capri restaurant, where Rocky is also chef, and their book features more than 80 recipes inspired by local ingredients, from corn to rabbit. £35, Phaidon
First published in Issue 8 of National Geographic Traveller Food
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