IMAGES: CARLOS ESPINOSA
CONSERVATION
PATRICK MOLDOWAN is a Canadian wildlife biologist currently working as the principal investigator for the Charles Darwin Foundation.
darwinfoundation.org
The Galápagos Islands have held a powerful allure since they fi rst came to the public’s attention when Charles Darwin’s Origin of the Species was published in 1859. Essential to his theories on evolution, these wildlife-rich islands off the coast of Ecuador have gone onto become a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a beacon of bio- diversity. More than 250,000 people visit annually, hoping to catch glimpses of marine iguanas, blue-footed boobies and, of course, the iconic giant tortoises. However, visitors need to remain mindful of how their presence could aff ect the delicate ecology of these wondrous islands.
What are the challenges these tortoises face? Across all islands, the tortoise population today is only 10% of its estimated historical abundance. Fortunately, some of the most severe threats have passed, but they’ve had a lasting eff ect. Between the 1700s and early 1900s, whalers and early colonists killed hundreds of thousands of tortoises, primarily for food and their oil. Tortoises grow slowly, reach sexual maturity late, and have low juvenile survival. Population recovery is slow, spanning half-century to century time scales, and requires ongoing support. Major threats include habitat destruction — primarily for agriculture — and climate change. Non-native predators (dogs, cats and pigs), competitors (goats and donkeys), and plants (introduced blackberry and cedrela trees) are also of major concern.
What kind of considerations should travellers bear in mind if they’re wanting to visit the Galápagos with minimal negative impact? Travellers should bear in mind that they are visiting remote islands that have a very limited capacity to provide for human needs and absorb impacts. Commodities are imported, packaged in plastics and other materials, and demand is rising. Extravagance threatens the natural world, so strive for minimalism and tread lightly. The magic of the Galápagos is in the natural beauty of the marine environment, rugged and varied landscapes, and unique wildlife. Let’s work together to keep it that way. Always adhering to the rules in Galápagos National Park will lighten your footprint and enhance safety for you and the wildlife.
Mindful travel Extravagance threatens the natural world, so strive for minimalism and tread lightly
From top: Giant tortoise hatchlings; scientists studying tortoise nests in the field
What tips would you give to readers wanting to make the most of a trip to the Galápagos? To get the most out of your trip, do your reading and plan accordingly! There are many islands and each has diff erent off erings in terms of access, activities, landscape, fl ora and fauna. As examples of things to consider: some islands provide overnight accommodation, whereas others are only accessible by day trip with a national park guide; specifi c bird species and other wildlife are often restricted to particular islands or their activity limited to particular times of year. Also, don’t forget your binoculars, camera and high-factor sunscreen.
What would readers be most surprised to know about these creatures? Many might associate great migrations with the march of wildebeest across the Serengeti, songbirds crossing continents, and salmon returning to
their natal rivers. But there are outstanding migrations occurring in the Galápagos too. What can weigh over 660 pounds and walks up the sides of volcanoes? Galápagos giant tortoises! Findings from the Charles Darwin Foundation’s Galápagos Tortoise Movement Ecology Programme show that their journeys take approximately two weeks and cover four to six miles or more each way, gaining 440 yards in elevation. Tortoises might move slowly, but they demonstrate endurance.
How did your career path lead you to this point? A childhood fascination with all things that creep, crawl, slither and slime set me along the path to working with the iconic giant tortoises of Galápagos. I studied wildlife biology, with specialisations in ecology and conservation. I became involved in fi eld research with amphibians and reptiles early in my academic studies and credit that with my passion for working with these outstanding creatures in wild settings.
What does a typical day entail for you? A typical day of fi eldwork involves long hikes over rocky terrain, often in hot and humid conditions, in search of tortoises. Our team frequently uses radiotelemetry to track the movements and whereabouts of these creatures. Select tortoises have small devices attached to their shells that broadcast a high-frequency radio signal. Using a handheld antenna and receiver unit — like that of a car — we tune to diff erent radio frequencies to track their direction and location. Tracking tortoises in this way contributes to our understanding of habitat use, migration, reproduction and threats, among other aspects of their biology and conservation.
What is the best part of your job and what is the most challenging part? The best part is being out in the sunshine and surrounded, of course, by giant tortoises! Days in the fi eld bring no shortage of challenges, but also many rewards. Despite being giants and generally slow-moving, they are not necessarily easy to fi nd in the Galápagos landscape and they cover considerable ground during their migrations. There is still a lot that we do not know about the basic biology of giant tortoises and so there are always opportunities to learn. This, combined with frequent sightings of other Galápagos wildlife, are absolute highlights. Admittedly, returning to emails and paperwork after a string of days in the fi eld is the most diffi cult part of the job.
Do you have a favourite tortoise friend? It’s diffi cult to pick just one! I’ve grown attached to ‘Diane’, a large adult female Eastern Santa Cruz giant tortoise (Chelonoidis donfaustoi). Diane is a relatively new member of the long- term study, having been GPS-tagged in 2021. This year we closely followed her migratory movements, conducted health check-ups, and monitored the outcome of her nests. She laid fi ve clutches of eggs, totalling more than 60 eggs, during the 2023 reproductive season. Such insights into the little-known lives of these remarkable animals are inspiring to me.
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER – ISLANDS COLLECTION 31
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