IMAGES: ALAMY; GETTY
HISTORY
ISLE OF SKYE, SCOTLAND Musical history We’re all familiar with the harp — but we may not have heard of its distant relative, the lyre. Those who have are more likely to associate the stringed instrument with the Middle East’s ancient Sumerian civilisation, where a 4,500-year-old lyre was discovered in modern-day Iraq. It’d be a surprise, then, that a lyre said to be just 500 years younger was found quite a distance away, on Scotland’s Isle of Skye. The 2012 discovery tugged on the heartstrings of islanders whose past has been underpinned by a love of traditional folk music, often featuring stringed instruments. Today, it’s players of fi ddles, accordions
and bagpipes who pick up gigs at one of Skye’s many live music venues — and they’re fi ercely committed to preserving their proud Celtic roots. See a variety of acts at Skye Live, the island’s annual music festival with hours of traditional Scottish rhythms to sing and dance to, including many in the Gaelic language. The festival features ceilidhs (traditional Scottish gatherings, often involving dancing), barrels of Scotch whisky and an impressive backdrop of the Old Man of Storr — Skye’s immense rocky outcrop that stands precariously on a glacial landslip and looks out over the Sound of Raasay. Skye has always been synonymous with folklore
— the island’s striking natural landscapes, including its so-called ‘fairy pools’, have provided settings for storytellers’ tales since time immemorial. The Old Man of Storr is a constant fi xture. Legend has it Skye was once a land of warring giants, but following the demise of a particularly vicious giant king, the earth swallowed his body whole, leaving just a thumb poking out of the ground (or something a tad more private). Tour operator Rabbie’s runs single- and multi-day tours discovering the storied landscapes of Skye.
skyelive.co.uk rabbies.com HOW TO DO IT: Reach Skye by ferry — the closest train station is Mallaig on the nearby mainland, servicing the West Highlands Line. Skye has no airport. Kinoch Lodge, a 17th-century former hunting lodge, is among the island’s most historic hotels.
kinloch-lodge.co.uk
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MALTA Modern history It’s diffi cult to separate Malta from its military history after centuries upon centuries of invaders exploiting the island’s geopolitical advantages. Despite this, the Maltese have proudly protected their unique culture. Though English is still widely spoken as one of Malta’s offi cial languages — installed during 150 years of British rule which also left behind left-hand driving and glossy red post boxes in the otherwise baroque capital of Valletta — impassioned calls for revival saw Maltese become the offi cial language again in 1934. Maltese is an ancient Semitic language probably
derived from Siculo-Arabic, with a large amount of loanwords from other languages — linguists will delight in eavesdropping on morning chatter at cafes and bakeries, where many familiar words punctuate conversations. Dating to the 19th century, Caff e Cordina is a perennial favourite where you can do just that — ideally out of high season. Visitors can learn more about Malta’s military history at the National War Museum. There’s hardly a time of year when the Maltese
aren’t celebrating something — but modern history buff s should head out for 21 September which marks Malta’s Independence Day. The island nation’s sovereignty was hard-fought for and fi nally won in 1964. Celebrations take place at St John’s Cathedral in Valletta and at the Granaries in Floriana. Check out the tourism board’s website for planned events. Valletta’s Teatru Rjal is a must-see. Until
Luftwaff e bombers obliterated its 1877 form — which was designed by Edward Middleton Barry, also the architect of London’s Royal Opera House — it was among the capital’s most iconic and opulent buildings. Its skeletal remains, soft-lit by honey-coloured lamps in the evening, ooze with a sultry atmosphere that elevates the performances still taking place within its new open-air set-up. caff
ecordina.com
pjazzateatrurjal.gov.mt visitmalta.com HOW TO DO IT: Fly direct from the UK to Valletta with multiple airlines. The Casa Rocca Piccola is a 16th-century palace situated in the heart of Valletta’s Old Town.
casaroccapiccolabandb.com
Clockwise from top left: A street scene in Valletta, Malta; the view from Skye to the Old Man of Storr rock feature; a fresco of charging bulls at the palace of Knossos on Crete, Greece Previous pages: Domes and roofs of Valletta , Malta
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