SCOTLAND
F IVE MOR E
ORKNEY HIGHLIGHTS 1
The Italian Chapel On the pint-sized island of Lamb Holm stands
the Italian Chapel, a remarkable relic of the Second World War. When Italian prisoners were sent to Orkney to build the Churchill Barriers — four causeways linking the mainland to its smaller neighbouring islands — they asked for a place of worship. With little more than concrete, scrap metal and leftover paint, they transformed two humble Nissen huts into a Catholic church. Among the 550 men transported to Camp 60 from North Africa was artist Domenico Chiocchetti, who, with the help of fellow tradesmen, adorned the chapel with frescoes, faux stone columns, vaulted ceiling murals and delicate wrought-iron gates. In 2015, it was lovingly restored by Antonella Papa, an expert whose previously worked in the Sistine Chapel. Admission is £4 per person, with free entry for ages 12 and under.
orkney.com/listings/the-italian-chapel
2
Skara Brae On the western edge of Mainland Orkney,
overlooking the Bay of Skaill, lies Skara Brae. This is one of the most complete and accessible Neolithic settlements in Europe, and inside its nine stone dwellings are strikingly familiar features. Box beds, hearths, dressers, shelving units and living areas all give the homes a startling sense of intimacy. Archaeologists have also uncovered tools, jewellery and even board games, now displayed in the visitor centre, while outside, narrow covered passageways link the village together. Thought to be around 5,000 years old, Skara Brae was once inhabited by a small community of around 50- 100 people. Preserved by its semi-subterranean construction, the site remained hidden until a storm in 1850 revealed it to the world. Today, it forms part of the Heart of Neolithic Orkney UNESCO World Heritage Site and welcomes visitors year-round. Admission starts at £10 for a standard adult ticket, with free entry for those aged under seven.
historicenvironment.scot
3 74
The Hoxa and Balfour Batteries Follow the grassy coastal path around Hoxa
Head and you’ll come to the Hoxa and Balfour Battery complexes. Built in both of the Wars to defend a once vital anchorage for the British navy, it was here, in June 1919, that the German High Seas Fleet was scuttled by its own sailors’
NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM/TRAVEL
crews. A staggering 52 of the 74 interned vessels were deliberately sunk to stop them falling into allied hands, and many still rest on the seabed. The batteries themselves once bristled with vast guns, their scale still hinted at in the crumbling gun pits, alongside the remains of searchlights and observation posts. As you wander the ruins today, you might glimpse orcas or dolphins slipping through the Sound of Hoxa, while shags and guillemots wheel overhead.
4
Kirkwall Kirkwall, the capital of Orkney, is a compact,
walkable town that more than makes up in character what it lacks in size. Founded in the 11th century on Mainland Orkney’s northern coast, it grew into an important Norse port — and traces of that heritage remain everywhere. At its heart stands St Magnus Cathedral, a striking red-and- yellow sandstone landmark known as the ‘Light of the North’. Britain’s most northerly cathedral, it was built by the Vikings in 1137 and then expanded over the next 300 years. Beside it lie the ruins of the Bishop’s and Earl’s Palaces: the former built in the 12th century to house clergy. Today, the town’s narrow streets are lined with craft shops and cafes, and each midsummer, Kirkwall bursts into life with the St Magnus Festival, a week-long celebration of arts and culture.
orkney.com/explore/kirkwall
5
Highland Park Whisky Distillery Highland Park Whiskey Distillery was founded
in 1798 by Magnus ‘Mansie’ Eunson — a church beadle by day and whisky smuggler by night, who was said to have hidden bottles of contraband beneath his pulpit. Officially licensed in 1826, the distillery now sits on the edge of Kirkwall as Scotland’s northernmost single malt Scotch producer. Its reputation rests on a signature balance of smoky, sweet and spicy notes, shaped by Orkney’s heather-rich peat, Oloroso sherry- seasoned oak casks and the traditional practice of floor malting. After more than a year-long ‘silent season’ from April 2024 to March 2025 — during which environmental upgrades cut the distillery’s carbon emissions by 20% — Highland Park has reopened its doors with a range of tours and tasting experiences. Distillery experiences start from £30 and tastings are available from £7.50 at Highland Park’s store in Kirkwall town centre.
highlandparkwhisky.com
Clockwise from top: The name Kirkwall comes from the Old Norse Kirkjuvágr, meaning Church Bay; Highland Park Whisky Distillery produces batches with a distinctive sweet, smoky character; black guillemots can be spotted in Orkney year-round
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