Sri Lanka’s historic main railway runs 180 miles east from the capital, Colombo, to Badulla in the Central Highlands, and is one of the world’s great train journeys. It winds through forests, tea plantations and Victorian-era stations, before pausing at one of the country’s most photographed landmarks: the Nine Arch Bridge (opposite). Many travellers choose a shorter two- or
three-hour ride between Highland stops, but the overnight service from Colombo takes around 10 hours, rolling into Ella — and the nearby viaduct — at first light. Ella itself is a lively hub of cafes and bars, yet just an hour into the hills lies Amba Estate, where the rhythm slows. Here, world-renowned teas are still produced and guests can stay in a plantation house, try their hand at tea- picking or head out for hikes and wild swims. Days begin and end with traditional dishes prepared by former farmworkers, whose skills keep the old estate kitchen alive (above).
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER – EXPERIENCES COLLECTION 35