Vereda do Larano Porto da Cruz to Machico
MAD E I R A , PORTUGAL
Distance: 9 miles (one way) Terrain: Steep cliff paths and laurel forest tracks Vibe: Atlantic wilderness Highlights: Ocean panoramas and wild flora Difficulty: Challenging
A nine-mile coastal trail linking Porto da Cruz with the old town of Machico, the Vereda do Larano is one of Madeira’s most dramatic paths. The route climbs steeply from Porto da Cruz’s Alagoa Beach through levadas (irrigation channels dating back to the 15th century) and vineyards into the UNESCO- listed Laurisilva forest, a relic of subtropical woodland that once covered much of southern Europe. The switchbacks are sharp, the footing often slick with moss, but shafts of light pierce the canopy and the air lilts with birdsong. Emerging from the trees, the downward trail
threads along cliff s that sheer into the Atlantic, the sea spread restlessly below. The sense of exposure is intoxicating: on one side, volcanic walls; on the other, nothing but air and horizon. Reaching Machico, with its golden-sand beach and harbour cafes, feels like stepping back into civilisation.
Path of the Gods AMAL FI COAS T, I TALY
Distance: 4 miles (one way) Terrain: Cliffside trail, stone steps Vibe: Mediterranean drama Highlights: Sea views and rustic villages Difficulty: Moderate
If there were prizes for cinematic scenery, the Amalfi Coast would take every statuette going. From the fi rst steps above the village of Bomerano, this limestone trail clings to cliff s that dive into the Tyrrhenian Sea, its waters shifting through infi nite shades of blue below. For centuries, this was a mule track linking
Running is one of the
purest ways to connect with a place. No tickets,
no timetables — just the route and the rhythm of your stride, the
destination unfolding step by step
scattered farms and communities. Its past lingers in ruined shepherds’ huts and terraces of grapevines carved into the slopes. Between scrambles up stone steps, the trail levels out into balcony-like sections where the views are dizzying, with Capri fl oating off shore like a mirage. Runners move through scents of lemon blossom and wild thyme, while cicadas off er the soundtrack. Most runners start just after dawn, chasing cool
air and soft light. By mid-morning, the limestone radiates heat. The route ends in Nocelle, a hamlet suspended above Positano, but those craving a fi nale can descend the 1,500 or so stone steps into town. It’s a quad-burning test, softened by the promise of a plunge at Spiaggia Grande.
The Lycian Way Ölüdeniz to Faralya
MUGLA PROVINC E , TÜ RK I Y E
Distance: 9 miles (one way) Terrain: Rocky trail, pine forests Vibe: Ancient and elemental Highlights: Turquoise bays and ancient ruins Difficulty: Challenging
The Lycian Way, a 335-mile trail, is a symphony of sea and stone. Waymarked in the 1990s to link ancient shepherds’ tracks, it follows routes used by the Lycians over two millennia ago. Stage one, from Ölüdeniz to Faralya, condenses the drama into a challenging run. Starting above the Blue Lagoon, shaded pine forests lead to limestone ridges with endless Mediterranean views. Faralya appears suddenly, a scatter of houses on a cliff -edge above Butterfl y Valley. It’s uneven ground, never allowing autopilot, but every twist off ers something new: a goat track to a hidden cove, a tomb carved into rock, the scent of oregano drifting on the breeze. Heat is a constant challenge: locals advise
early starts before the midday rocks shimmer and runners slow. Demanding? Certainly. And a reminder that pilgrimage and perspiration often go hand in hand.
Arthur’s Seat E D INB U RGH , SCOT L AND
Distance: 3.5 miles (loop) Terrain: Trail, rocky inclines Vibe: Urban volcano run Highlights: Views of Edinburgh and the Firth of Forth Difficulty: Moderate
Edinburgh’s skyline has a natural crown: Arthur’s Seat, a dormant volcano rising from Holyrood Park. For runners, it’s the city’s most exhilarating loop — wild, rugged and surprisingly close to the Royal Mile. The route starts near Holyrood Palace and climbs fast, cutting across Salisbury Crags before pitching upwards on a rocky incline. At 251 metres (823ft), the summit rewards with pure theatre: Old Town spires decorating the skyline, the orderly Georgian symmetry of New Town and the Firth of Forth shimmering into the distance. In clear weather, you can even trace the line of the Fife hills. From here, the descent fl ows past Dunsapie Loch,
its surface dotted with swans, and along gentler paths through grassy meadows. Wildfl owers paint the slopes in spring; by autumn, the bracken turns copper. It’s not a long route, but the uneven terrain and sharp gradients demand sure footing — and that’s part of the appeal. Few European cities off er such a raw landscape within walking distance of their heart; within minutes, cobbled alleys and whisky bars are traded for a hit of open sky.
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER – EXPERIENCES COLLECTION 63
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