IMAGE: ALAMY (TOP)
UK
ON THE UP Four more to explore
Margate Overcoming the restrictions of seasonality is top of every coastal town’s wish list. Margate, on the eastern tip of Kent, is the exemplar of this. When the weather sends visitors scurrying inland from the 656ft expanse of sand, there’s a near-endless array of distractions: artistic, retro, retail or just good old- fashioned seaside fun. Culture, embodied by the Turner Contemporary, helped the town turn the corner — but it’s the unshakeable sense of community that’s driving the resurgence. WHY GO? Dreamland, a century-old amusement park and outdoor events space resuscitated in 2015, goes from strength to strength. The Libertines, Texas and Basement Jaxx are among this summer’s headliners. WHERE TO EAT: Look out for open days at The Perfect Place to Grow, a training kitchen for unprivileged youngsters adjacent to Tracey Emin’s TKE Studios. Angela’s, in the atmospheric Old Town, is a tiny seafood restaurant and hotel, with a big reputation among locals. WHERE TO STAY: No 42 by GuestHouse, opened in the summer of 2023, has an enviable location fronting the beach and opening on to the High Street to the rear. It’s a well-heeled crowd, who come for the 21 stylish rooms and the brand’s signature Pearly Cow surf-and-turf restaurant.
Clockwise from top: Barmouth in Cardigan Bay has a west-facing beach, perfect for sunsets; the rooms at Angela’s look out across Margate’s harbour; autumn is the best time for fresh, locally caught squid in the UK
Penzance The resurgence of Cornwall’s wild west hub has been incremental, rather than sweeping, with dozens of projects, revivals and openings nudging the town in the right direction over the past decade. Festivals have provided a focus. The Golowan — 10 days of parades, performances and art displays — and the revived winter Montol (‘solstice’ in Cornish) are stirring affairs. The foodie scene has never been stronger and there’s a ready supply of visitors via the Night Riviera sleeper train from London. Improved chopper and ferry links to the Isles of Scilly also bring the perfect twin-centre holiday within reach. WHY GO? The spruced-up Penlee House Gallery & Museum runs workshops, film screenings and drop-in craft activities. The house is surrounded by semi-tropical gardens (that famous west Cornwall microclimate) and Cornish cream teas are served in the Orangery cafe. WHERE TO EAT: Barbican Bistro is just an unloaded catch away from Penzance harbour. Expect moreish tapas-style seafood dishes such as scallops with chorizo, and salt and pepper squid with harissa mayo. WHERE TO STAY: Artist Residence Cornwall is the westernmost outpost of the chic-yet-homely bijou hotel group. It’s set within a former Georgian inn with open brick work, heavy wooden beams and sea views from the highest of its 22 rooms.
Barmouth In the sprint to the better-known treasures of North Wales such as Eryri (Snowdonia) or the Llŷn Peninsula, it’s easy to miss little Barmouth, reclining on the edge of the Mawddach estuary. ‘For mountain, sand and sea’ is how the coastal town markets itself, which says it all. The generous, west-facing strand is a sunset hotspot, and the peaks provide an arresting backdrop landwards. This is the sort of town that’s full of visitors-turned-residents and it’s that sense of pride and community that’s powering its revival. WHY GO? The battle to maintain the 2,690ft-long, Grade II- listed Barmouth Viaduct is never more than temporarily won. With the latest £30m restoration recently completed, it’s a good time to stroll this engineering marvel, stretching like a wooden splinter across the estuary mouth. The more energetic might enjoy the annual 10k run in June, billed as the country’s most scenic, which takes in its length. WHERE TO EAT: Lobster Pot, on the Quay, is the place for dressed crab, seafood linguine, informality — and views of the hills massing across the estuary. WHERE TO STAY: The town is full of striking properties made from the local grey dolerite and slate stone — and few are more robust or striking than Aber House, strategically placed equidistant between harbour, beach and shops.
Scarborough The North Yorkshire town has a decent claim to be Britain’s first seaside resort; health-giving springs discovered here in the early 17th century started the cascade of coastal visitors. But its fall was long and sustained, and the rebound very much a work in progress. The strategy? To woo a diverse crowd with a beyond- eclectic blend of attractions and events, from poetry recitals to punk festivals, while continuing to cater to the deckchaired masses on sun-trap South Bay Beach or Blue Flag North Bay Beach. WHY GO? The nostalgists will love strolling through the revamped Esplanade and Italian gardens, marvelling at the imposing silhouette of the Grand — the largest hotel in Europe when it was completed in 1867. The century-old ‘OAT’ (Open Air Theatre), which re-opened in 2010, now draws some of the country’s biggest acts, often leaning into nostalgic revivals. A £20 million transformation of the West Pier is also on the horizon, set to breathe new life into the historic waterfront. WHERE TO EAT: The unimproveably named BellyRub is an informal, dog-friendly craft-beer bar specialising in inventive comfort food such as black pudding, chorizo and bacon fries. WHERE TO STAY: As the name suggests, Bike & Boot aims to court the outdoorsy crowd. It’s lively and colourful with no-nonsense pizzas and burgers served in its hybrid Bareca bar/restaurant/cafe.
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER — COASTAL COLLECTION 33
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