VANCOUVER ISLAND
WELCOME THE WHALES
For more than 30 years, the Pacific Rim Whale Festival has celebrated the arrival of migrating grey whales to Canada’s wild west coast — the perfect introduction to a land rich in coastal traditions and epic scenery. Words: Connor McGovern
Stand on the western shores of Vancouver Island in March and you’ll spot some of British Columbia’s most famous visitors. Each spring, thousands of grey whales glide past this stretch of coast on their journey from the warm breeding waters of Mexico to the nutrient-rich waters of Alaska — a round trip of up to 15,000 miles, making it the longest mammal migration on Earth. In the mid-1980s, Brian Congdon, a resident of Ucluelet on
the west coast of Vancouver Island, had an idea. He wanted to celebrate this natural spectacle with a home-grown festival, much like those he’d seen in California. Drawing on his experience running a whale-watching tour company, he brought together volunteers and local authorities, devised an events programme and the Pacific Rim Whale Festival was born. Taking place in the coastal towns of Tofino and Ucluelet, as
well as throughout the Pacific Rim Reserve, the festival runs for a week at the height of the whale migration (around March every year), with ample opportunity to spot these graceful giants. A busy calendar of events includes panel discussions, wildlife-watching trips and hands-on workshops honouring the traditions of the Nuu-chah-nulth First Nations, for whom the grey whale has long held cultural significance. Though the festival has evolved since Brian first envisioned it more than 30 years ago, its mission remains unchanged: to raise awareness of grey whales and support their long-term protection.
Festival highlights Naturally, the wonders of the ocean take centre stage. At the Whale Spotting from Shore session at Amphitrite Point Lighthouse, naturalists and marine biologists will be on hand to explain the fascinating behaviour of grey whales, which — with a dash of luck — can be spotted from the coast. But getting out on the open water is the most exhilarating
way to see these majestic beasts in action. Local operators offer boat and sea kayak trips off the coast, and whale-watching company Subtidal Adventures runs three-hour Marine Mammal Research Days as part of the festival. On rigid inflatable boat excursions into Barkley Sound, experts will share tips on identifying individual whales and unpick some of the animals’ unique behaviours, from lobbing and fluking to breaching — a breathtaking sight on any whale-watching cruise. Spring also marks the herring spawn season, when countless
herring lay their eggs off the coast, turning the shallows into a cloudy swirl of turquoise. The spawning is doubly spectacular for the wealth of wildlife it attracts, from hungry seabirds and eagles swooping overhead to seals, sea lions and even black bears, which have been known to graze on the eggs at low tide.
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NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM/TRAVEL Visitors can learn even more about local marine life at the
Beach Seine with Ucluelet Aquarium, on Terrace Beach. Using a seine net, aquarium staff carefully catch (and then release) an array of ocean critters — from shallow-dwelling crustaceans to Pacific Ocean perch — demonstrating how the underwater ecosytems connect them. There’s plenty on land to enjoy, too. Tofino comes alive
with music for the Parade of Whales and Wonder, where local community groups display imaginative ocean-themed floats, while the Maritime Kids Day in Tofino and Ucluelet promise plenty of interactive craft and science sessions for a fun-filled introduction to marine biology. On the final day, Wick Beach in Ucluelet will play host to a morning of family-friendly fun, including the ever-popular Tug-O-Whale challenge, as well as the Nuu-chah-nulth storytelling session, which brings First Nations traditions to life.
Get involved The Pacific Rim Whale Festival runs two types of event: button events, all of which guests access by purchasing a badge (with a suggested donation for each one), and events that require the purchase of a ticket to attend, which are available from the website under each specific event. These are run on a first come, first served basis, and some — particularly the Marine Mammal Research days — are very popular, so book well in advance. Those keen on helping to organise, marshal or meet-and-greet during the festival can find out more on the ‘Volunteering’ page. The action mostly takes place between the surfing hotspot
of Tofino and laid-back Ucluelet, which are around half-an- hour’s drive apart. Most accommodation options can be found in and around each town; try 1970s-inspired Hotel Zed Tofino, or Ucluelet’s Snug Harbour Inn, whose fresh and breezy rooms overlook the ocean. When it comes to the weather, March on Vancouver Island
can be chilly, with highs of around 12C, and rain showers are common. Events are held in a variety of indoor and outdoor venues, so pack accordingly. Of course, the festival is only part of the appeal in this rugged
corner of Vancouver Island. Strike out on the Wild Pacific Trail, a five-mile walking route that twists along the coast around Ucluelet, through craggy cedar forests and around storm- battered lighthouses, or sea kayak around the Broken Group Islands, scattered through Barkley Sound. For a true sense of adventure, escape to Hot Springs Cove — accessible only by boat or floatplane — and swim beneath geothermal waterfalls as they tumble down to the sea.
Clockwise from top: The Huu-ay-aht First Nation Community offers village tours for visitors to the Pacific Rim Whale Festival; thousands of grey whales migrate past Vancouver Island every year; The Surfrider Foundation Pacific Rim organises beach clean-ups
IMAGES: MARK MCKEOUGH; GETTY; ANDI WARDROP
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