VANCOUVER ISLAND
WEATHER THE WAVES
Tofino’s towering waves have pinned storm-watching tourism to the map, transforming the activity from an off-season secret into a year-round adventure for those drawn to nature’s wildest moods. Words: Zoey Goto
There’s nothing new in feeling awe in the face of nature’s grandeur. The Romantics were enraptured by it back in the 19th century. English artist JMW Turner stirred the soul by painting brooding skies of biblical proportions, while philosopher Immanuel Kant explored the sublime — that profound blend of terror and wonder evoked by observing natural phenomena like a raging thunderstorm. However, curated storm-watching tourism didn’t really take
off until 1996, when the original of cult-classic movie Twister sparked a whirlwind of interest in extreme weather. That same year, the Wickaninnish Inn opened its doors in Tofino, on the rugged western coast of Vancouver Island. Inspired by childhood memories of marvelling at the region’s wild winter storms with his family, owner Charles McDiarmid envisioned a sanctuary where visitors could embrace — not escape — Tofino’s furious season, when Pacific storms unleash monster waves that tower up to 20ft high. Perched on a bluff facing an uninterrupted ocean expanse (the next landmass is Japan), the inn was designed for full immersion. Every one of its 75 rooms has huge windows built to withstand 100mph winds, while crackling fireplaces and thick wool blankets create a hygge vibe. Guest rooms also come stocked with waterproof gear so
adventurous types can brave the conditions, because in Tofino, there’s no such thing as bad weather, just the wrong clothing. It was a bold concept. “People thought we were crazy to market these wild winter maelstroms as a reason to visit,” Charles admits with a laugh. The gamble paid off. Between November and February in
its opening year, the hotel’s occupancy rates surged from 30% to 58%. Guests, initially attracted by the novelty, discovered something more profound. “It’s about escaping the city and appreciating how special our natural environment is,” Charles reflects, noting that, regardless of their ages, his guests share a common trait: an adventurous spirit.
Clockwise from top: The Wickaninnish Inn offers front-row seats to nature’s fury; the wild western coast of Vancouver Island; storm-tracking tour companies have seen significant increases in annual bookings
Tofino’s storm-season boom The success of Wickaninnish Inn sent ripples through Tofino and its neighbouring town, Ucluelet. Embracing the rise of storm-watching tourism, Vancouver Island rallied behind the concept. Hotels including Crystal Cove Beach Resort, Long Beach Lodge Resort, Black Rock Oceanfront Resort and SookePoint Ocean Cottage Resort all cater to squall-seekers, with their beachfront locations, surf-friendly waters and luxurious- yet-cosy atmospheres. BC Ferries Vacations also runs tailored storm-watching holiday packages when the weather outside is frightful, including both transport and accommodation at well
placed hotels. Meanwhile the Tourism Tofino website highlights the best spots for windswept beach walks, plus a cosy inland sauna to warm up in afterwards. The strategy has proven successful, as the once-quiet fishing
villages of Tofino and Ucluelet have evolved into year-round adventure hubs. Between November and March, traditionally considered the off-season for tourism, Tofino’s hotel occupancy now consistently ranges from 46% to 58%, a trend that’s remained steady for the past six years. Yet, while many islanders welcome storm tourism, safety
remains a concern. Liam Ogle, a guide with Long Beach Nature Tours, warns travellers not to underestimate the risks posed by extreme weather, especially in the era of climate change. “Forest trails can be dangerous with falling branches, and
coastal areas pose risks due to storm surges,” he cautions. Before venturing out, he advises checking the Coast Smart website for safety tips. “Nature here is both intense and beautiful. Respect for Mother Nature is deeply ingrained in the local community.”
The global appeal of wild weather While Vancouver Island’s Wickaninnish Inn may have pioneered storm-lashed travel, hold onto your hats, because its influence has spread around the world. In BC’S capital, Victoria, the tourist board has rebranded harsh winters as ‘cosy season’, creating suggested itineraries for visitors that incorporate blustery hikes to lighthouses followed by candlelit meals. Also embracing the philosophy that foul weather is subjective,
Washington State’s Long Beach Peninsula is celebrated as a prime spot to view a king tide — a rare, supersized tide that occurs when the gravitational forces of the moon, sun and Earth align to amplify tidal ranges. Closer to home, and proving that gale-force getaways have
stepped into the world of luxury, the five-star Headland Hotel in Newquay, Cornwall, rolls out the red carpet with storm-watching breaks featuring a spa overlooking waves crashing against the rugged cliffs. A third of the hotel’s winter guests check in specifically for their storm-watching package. Whether braving high winds on a driftwood-strewn beach
in Tofino or witnessing the majestic furore through binoculars from the comfort of a hotel room, it’s safe to say a certain kind of traveller is drawn to nature’s wildest moments. “There’s a mesmerising contrast between the raw power of
a storm and its undeniable beauty — one which is both awe- inspiring and humbling,” states Charles. “Experiencing such forces first-hand is a stark reminder of nature’s immense scale and our own infinitesimal place within it.”
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER – COASTAL COLLECTION 21
IMAGES: MARCUS PALADINO; KYLER VOS; RICKY FORBES
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