ISLANDS


View of Lord Howe Island as seen from the top of Malabar Hill, New South Wales, Australia


B E S T FOR NAT U R E B E RGHOLME N, STOC KHOLM A R CHIP E L AGO


For something entirely different, the Stockholm archipelago has a fiercely loyal following of locals who have fallen for its serene rocky shores and pockets of ethereal, wild nature. No one really knows how many islands make up the archipelago, though the general consensus is around 24,000 — all of which are rooted in bucolic loveliness. And yet it’s all wholly accessible from the enduringly cool capital with regular boat connections to and from Stockholm. Looking for escapism? The private island of Bergholmen might just be the antidote — it’s only a 40-minute boat ride from the capital, but its clandestine reputation only adds to the feeling you’ve stumbled across a secretive dwelling. WHAT TO DO: There’s only one place to stay on Bergholmen: Island Lodge. It’s a collection of domed geodesic tents, with wooden floors, proper beds and windows opening to views of guests spading shells and staggering over rockpools, or distant fishing boats seesawing on the inky sea. Trips here are all about enjoying early morning coffee with the sand between your toes, foraging trips in search of berries and mushrooms, reading a book on the decking and walking under a canopy of wiry firs and birches. You can kayak to nearby islets, and as you arrive back at camp, slip into the hot outdoor shower or the hot tub, before enjoying a meal prepared using foraged ingredients. WHEN TO GO: From May to September. HOW TO DO IT: Rent the entire island and enjoy all-inclusive accommodation at Island Lodge Bergholmen from £1,278 per night. islandlodge.se


B E S T FOR WILDLI FE LORD HOWE I S LAND


Travel writers are always waxing lyrical about ‘hidden gems’ and ‘paradise islands’. Though both travel cliches are entirely true for this out-of-the-way speck, strung on its lonesome in the Pacific about 370 miles from the Aussie mainland. You could arrive by private yacht, though the most breathtaking journey is aboard a tiny propeller plane, launching from Sydney for a two- hour flight above glittering seas. On the approach, Lord Howe’s towering twin peaks pop into view, rising from tuſts of green and ringed by a pristine halo of ice-white sand. WHAT TO DO: The magic here lies in the island’s biodiversity. Gaze at seabirds raising chicks on the beach and slip into the bath-warm lagoon, where technicolour marine life buzzes about just inches from your mask. Further inland, a bush walk up to Malabar Hill or through the Valley of the Shadows takes you towards nesting birds. And with a cap on just 400 visitors at any one time, you really can have beaches all to yourself, scooping shells and kayaking under the hot sun before barbecued seafood lunches. There’s even the chance to head out to Elizabeth Reef — the world’s southernmost coral reef — some 90 miles north of Lord Howe, where only a handful of people have been lucky enough to visit. WHEN TO GO: Between September and May, though the island remains warm and sunny in June, July and August. HOW TO DO IT: Stay at beachhouse-chic Capella Lodge, whose ultra-luxe lodges open to dreamy views of the mountains and lagoon. Wexas offers tailor-made trips to Lord Howe from £4,260 per person for seven nights. wexas.com


National Geographic Traveller – Luxury Collection 29


IMAGE: GETTY


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