INDIA
Witness Kerala two ways
Framed by a 370-mile coastline, the misty peaks of the Western Ghats and a
meandering river network, Kerala ranks among India’s most entrancing states. Soak up its backwaters from the comfort of a homestay on a secluded island or aboard a luxury houseboat. Words: Isabella Noble
On the land
On the eastern shores of Vembanad Lake, a palm- dotted, 35-acre fruit-and-spice farm hidden on a small island between Kochi and Kottayam offers the chance to delve into the rich and distinctive culture of Kerala’s backwaters. This is the home of Anu Mathew and her family, who welcome guests with home-cooked communal meals of fish molee (a spiced coconut stew), fluffy appam pancakes and fresh dosas with homemade chutneys, showcasing their Syrian Christian heritage. The farm has been in her family since the 1950s, surviving the 2018 floods which saw the state hit by the worst monsoon rains in over a century. Getting here involves hopping on a punt-driven
canoe across waters thick with purple hyacinths, where Anu takes travellers on a tour of the farm. Among the 20 different vegetables grown are local favourites like okra, pumpkin, tomatoes and cauliflower, as well as fiery chillies and three different types of coconut. Hands-on cooking classes with Anu’s mother reveal the secret to making the perfect nadan kohzi (Keralan chicken curry), before taking a sunset boat trip across the lake. Local birds like Brahminy kites and kingfishers are regularly spotted swooping above the water; visitors keen to go birdwatching should head out to the nearby Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary, where flocks of resident and migratory species gather. Don’t miss cycling to neighbouring villages like tiny Alapuzza with its clutch of brightly painted houses and pretty, whitewashed church. Kerala also has a large Christian community and guests are welcome to accompany Anu to morning mass on Sundays. If time permits, a day trip to nearby Munnar gives a fascinating glimpse of Kerala’s tea plantations, which are some of the highest in the world and famed for producing leaves with warm, mellow flavours. Back at the farm, seven independent villas gaze
out on the water, and are designed in the style of traditional Keralan homes: breezy indoor-outdoor spaces with mismatched antique furniture, carved wooden doors and cool clay flooring. Each villa has a verandah for lounging on, ideally over a mug of steaming South Indian tea. HOW TO DO IT: Villas start from £240 per night for two people, full board;
philipkuttysfarm.com
From the water
The classic way to experience lowland Kerala’s immense natural beauty is by houseboat, weaving slowly through the glistening backwaters and scattered, palm-fringed islets. These traditional thatched-roof boats (locally called kettuvallam) are built with coconut fibre, wood and bamboo and have been used to transport rice and coconuts in this part of South India for thousands of years. Based on the Valiyaparamba backwaters behind
Kerala’s less-touristed northern coast, the Lotus is one of Kerala’s smartest houseboats. This region between Kannur and Bekal feels much quieter than the busier waterways near Alappuzha (Alleppey), the main backwaters hub further south, and is best explored on a one- or two-night houseboat cruise. Routes typically travel along waterways just
inland from and running parallel to the sea coast, near the mouth of the Thejaswini River. On an overnight trip, you’ll stop at small island temples, get the chance to see artisanal coir-making (rope spun from coconut husks) and meet several local village communities. Dining on board the Lotus is a treat, too, with fresh Kerala-style meals prepared by an in-house chef, including feast-like thalis served on the secluded rooftop deck. From the outside, the Lotus might appear to
be a classic kettuvallam, but stepping inside reveals an elegantly pared-back retreat featuring gleaming teak-wood floors, hot-pink cushions and handwoven rugs. There are two private bedrooms with carved-wood beds, artworks depicting Hindu myths, contemporary-design bathrooms and organic ayurvedic bath products in refillable ceramic bottles. Floor-to-ceiling windows bathe the houseboat interiors with light, while balconies provide cosy perches for reading and soaking up the pink-tinged sunrise. Bookings can be made per room if you’re happy
to meet other guests on board, though an exclusive houseboat stay tempts many. The whole operation is run by the team behind Neeleshwar Hermitage, a beautiful, sustainability-driven seafront resort and ayurveda centre that makes a calming stopover before or after a backwaters adventure. HOW TO DO IT: A one-night cruise on the Lotus starts from £510 for two people, full board.
abchapriretreats.in/lotus-houseboat
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER – LUXURY COLLECTION 15
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