6 T e Travel Guide
Heavenly Hastings
Tradition and innovation combine in this historic and often overlooked port town on the stunning East Sussex coast in Southern England. Words: Hannah Summers
Sun-kissed seafront IMAGE: DAVID CHARBIT
has changed so much — since the 11th century, certainly, but over the past decade, too. Like many British seaside resorts, Hastings and its neighbour, St Leonards-on-Sea, had their heyday in the Victorian era before falling into a period of decline. T eir revivals in recent years have been as huge as they are heartening. T ese are places packed with independent shops, restaurants, pubs and boutique hotels — so many that a week-long visit would hardly even scratch the surface of what there is on off er. Hastings is popular in the spring and summer, when the sunlit sea is turquoise, the seafront rides are in full swing and the town heads out for Jack in the Green — a day of folk dancing, parades and merriment held on May Day. But in the winter, too, it takes on an all-new Zen, when pubs feel even cosier and the sunsets more sublime.
M Fish dish IMAGE: STEVEN PAINTER Looking Glass Lodge
What’s the best way to explore? One of Hastings’ biggest attractions is the lightbulb-garlanded Old Town, with its timber-framed pubs and antique shops. Squeeze into Roberts Rummage to browse ceramics and the treasures of the £1 box before strolling down to T e Stade. Hastings is proudly home to one of Britain’s oldest fi shing fl eets, and you can still catch colourful wooden boats being hauled onto this stretch of shingle come late afternoon. Just behind are the ‘net shops’ — tall black timber huts used for fi shing net storage since the 1830s, some of which are so unique in design
Road cycling must-haves
Make your bike rides a breeze, whatever the weather and conditions, with our curated range of practical must-have accessories designed to keep you and your bicycle safe, dry and visible. Words: Amanda Canning, Sam Kemp, Pat Riddell
Temple Bar Bag
T is versatile two-litre bag mounts on the handlebars via secure straps. Made from weatherproof polyester, it quickly converts into a cross-body bag when off the bike. Perfect for keeping essentials such as a phone, cards and keys within easy reach, it pairs well with Temple’s Snack Bag (£26), also good for holding a water bottle. £49.
temple-outdoor.com
Le Col Mitts
Suitable for all seasons in the UK, Le Col’s breathable cycling mitts off er strategically placed padding to minimise friction and enhance grip. T e lightweight, sleek mitts — available in black, white and navy — is also extremely comfortable, which is key for any long-distance cycling. T e perforations minimise moisture build-up, while the robust fabric is machine washable. £50.
lecol.cc
Van Rysel Road Bike Helmet
RCR MIPS Comfy, just 280g and well ventilated, the RCR helmet compares favourably to equivalents at twice the price. It features Multi-directional Impact Protection System technology, which off ers additional support by reducing rotational motion impact. Available in white and indigo blue. £79.99.
decathlon.co.uk
POC Motion Rain Jacket
A specialist in bike and snow gear, POC has a range of cycling jackets for every type of ride, from mountain biking through to city commuting. Its Motion Rain Jacket, available for men and women, has a water column of 20,000mm — so you’re guaranteed to stay dry in the heaviest rain. Ventilated under-arms ensure you’ll not get clammy, either. T e hood fi ts under helmets, and refl ective strips keep you visible. £250.
poc.com
Thule Paramount Hybrid Panier T is weather-resistant panier quickly converts into a backpack that, at 26 litres, has enough storage for lunch and clothing, while space- savvy organisers make slotting in your laptop a breeze. A refl ective rain cover provides protection and excellent nighttime visibility. It’s well suited to T ule’s heavy-duty Tour Rack (£94.99). £179.99.
thule.com
6 Bookman Volume 800 Bike Light With 800 lumens, this light ensures you and the road are visible on the darkest nights. Change modes, from fl ashing to single beam, via a dial that’s easily adjusted as you cycle. T e replaceable rechargeable battery is nift, too. Pair with Bookman’s Curve rear light (£35). £87.
bookmanvisibility.com
First published in the May 2025 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK). Read the feature in full at
nationalgeographic.com/travel
ention Hastings and people still refer to the battle of 1066, which is a shame given the town
Promotional Content • Saturday 3rd May 2025
they’ve been granted Grade II-listed status. From here, it’s a short walk to the rotating exhibitions at Hastings Contemporary gallery.
hastingscontemporary.org Make time for a session at Samphire
Sauna on Hastings Pier — it has great sunset views and direct access to the beach below for a dip. If you’re keen to venture further, windswept Pett Level beach is six miles away and ideal for a low-tide dog walk or rockpool splash. T ose with time to spare can walk there from the Old Town, following rolling coastal paths. T e surrounding hills are dotted with vineyards — Tillingham is the best known, but a tour with Vine & Country will take you to local favourites such as Charles Palmer and Oastbrook, where you’ll sit down for guided tastings among the vines.
samphiresauna.co.uk vineandcountrytours.co.uk
Where’s good for fresh fi sh? T e food scene here extends to some excellent options in St Leonards, so leave time for both towns. In Hastings, you can grab fresh seafood by the fi shing huts on T e Stade. For a sit-down meal, try the fi sh and chips at Maggie’s, a longstanding cafe with spindle-back chairs and swooping seagull views. T e Crown pub is the spot for a locally brewed pint, while further along the seafront, in St Leonards, you’ll fi nd Half Man Half Burger. T e pioneers behind the cool joint took a punt settling in this once- rundown town in 2015, but dozens of restaurants have followed. Bayte is a recent arrival, with velvet sofas and a
seasonal menu of fi sh and pasta dishes. For breakfast? It’d have to be Sleeper Bagel — off ering everything from salt beef to salmon. maggiesfi shandchips.
co.uk thecrownhastings.co.uk halfmanhalfburger.com
bayte.co.uk instagram.com/thesleeperstore
Where are the best places to stay? T e Old Rectory is a 14th-century property turned boutique bed and breakfast, close to the Old Town. It has its own spa, while rooms have French- chic furniture and chandeliers. One of Hastings’ latest additions is
T e Doghouse Inn: rooms above the Seadog, right by the station. T e pub is hugely popular, thanks to its Irish music nights, and the rooms — all seaweed-green walls and fringed lamps — are proving to be the same. If you don’t mind self-catering
and the 10-minute taxi ride, try the Looking Glass Lodge in Fairlight. Sleek and contemporary, the glass-fronted cabin is set in a patch of ancient woodland in the High Weald, an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. How to do it: Hastings has rail links to cities across the UK, often via London. Stay at T e Old Rectory from £150, B&B, the Doghouse Inn from £80, or Looking Glass Lodge from £670 for two nights. southeasternrailway.
co.uk theoldrectoryhastings.co.uk heseadogpub.com
lookingglasslodge.co.uk
First published in the May 2025 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK). Read the feature in full at
nationalgeographic.com/travel
“T e revival of British seaside resorts in recent years has been huge and heartening. T ese are places packed with independent shops, restaurants, pubs
and boutique hotels — so many that a week-long visit would hardly even scratch the surface of what there is on off er”
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