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ACCESS BRIEFING
“It’s easy to find out if a crag is restricted: check the new and improved Regional Access Database online (
www.thebmc.co.uk/rad) where you can now post updates about crags and check the latest news.”
Rob Dyer, BMC access & conservation officer LANCASHIRE: Wilton
This year’s WiltonFest was a massive success: a record 400 people and a huge number of routes climbed, burgers eaten, brews made and pints quaffed. Dedicated to the memory of our dear friend Nick Bond, who sadly lost his battle with cancer earlier this year, there was no better way to remember such a positive figure in Lancs climbing and the instigator of WiltonFest than by hosting hundreds of climbers at Lancashire’s premier crag and raising £1400 for Climbers Against Cancer in the process. Roll on WiltonFest 2018!
PEAK: Aldery
New stock-proof fencing has been installed at Aldery to prevent sheep from escaping into the quarry and to help with walking off. The replacement is a much studier post and rail fence rather than barbed wire, which can be used as a handrail and should make life considerably more pleasant when walking off in anything other than bone dry conditions.
WYE VALLEY: Wyndcliffe Quarry
Recent route development and cleaning at this botanically important SSSI damaged some of the rare whitebeam trees on the crag. Natural Resources Wales is happy for climbing to continue here providing no further damage is caused to the vegetation which forms part of the SSSI designation. If you have any plans to develop new routes in the quarry or undertake any cleaning (of new or existing routes), please contact Rob Dyer, BMC access officer (
robd@thebmc.co.uk), first to make sure that there are no sensitive species that are may be affected. This is essential to maintain the current excellent access enjoyed by climbers at this popular venue.
NORTH WEST WALES: Tremadog
Following the autumn storms there has been damage to routes and access paths at Craig Bwlch y Moch. The cliff near the route Belshazzar has seen significant rock-fall and trees are down near the approach path to Vector Buttress. Due to the effect of the hurricane force winds, violently shaking the mature trees, there could be further loose rock especially below ledges and cliff tops with large trees.
NORTH WALES: Craig Y Forwyn, Llanddulas
BMC is still negotiating access to the central area of this crag. As of October 2017, access to the left-hand side is allowed, routes ‘Cling’ to ‘Moonwalk’ are all ok. The Main Cliff section,
routes ‘Human Menagerie’ to ‘Purple Haze’, has a new owner and the BMC is in negotiation here. Our advice is to avoid this area while negotiations are on-going as there is an opportunity for the BMC to take on the direct responsibility and management of the crag – any altercations or accidents while these negotiations are on-going could jeopardise future agreements. Main Cliff right-hand section, ‘Purple Haze’ to ‘Top Cat’, also has a new owner who is happy to allow access for climbers, subject to access route as described in the guidebook, no dogs, no litter and keeping noise to a minimum. Do not approach the crag from below – follow the access approach given in the North Wales Limestone Guidebook.
EAST WALES: Llanymynech
There have been recent issues here with climbers’ behaviour and particularly with dogs not being controlled. The Wildlife Trust is very supportive of climbing at this sensitive conservation site; climbers and conservationists have got on well here. This behaviour by a few irresponsible climbers is putting access under threat. Please keep dogs under control at all times and do not allow them to disturb the grazing animals or wildlife.
SNOWDONIA: Craig Dinas, Betws y Coed
This neglected crag, high above the A5, was given a makeover by local climbers and now provides an easy- access sunny climbing venue following a BMC/National Trust supported crag clean up in late September. However do bear in mind that climbing is restricted from 1 March to 31 July due to nesting Peregrines.
PEMBROKESHIRE: Range West
Briefing dates for 2018 22/2/18 18:00 30/3/18 10:00 (Good Friday) 26/4/18 18:00 28/4/18 10:00 24/5/18 18:00 (Whitsun B/H) 26/5/18 10:00
PEMBROKESHIRE: Range East, West
Non-firing days for winter 2017 and all of 2018 Christmas 16/12/17 – 2/1/18 Easter 24/3/18 – 8/4/18 Summer 4/8/18 – 2/9/18
Check
www.thebmc.co.uk/rad for the latest access advice Rory Southworth
“Hands so cold I can no longer feel the Dolerite. Clearly off route and sat shivering on small ledges, waiting for the next team to reach us with the only guidebook the whole club had brought on the trip. I always associate my early climbing days with cold, wet multi-pitch routes on the walls of Tremadog with my university club, often short on gear and unprepared.
A prerequisite of these trips were that you had to be a BMC member, something I’d thought was only useful for discounts in outdoor stores and Summit magazine. At the time, I never knew why I actually needed to be a member (for the insurance!), or had much idea what the BMC did.
“Don’t forget you can check live winter conditions in Cwm Idwal,
Wales, and Great End crag, Lake District on our website. Now you’ve no excuse for missing that primo conditions weather window!”
CHECK: winter conditions at Cwm Idwal:
www.thebmc.co.uk/idwal CHECK: winter conditions at Great End:
www.thebmc.co.uk/greatend
Rob Dyer, BMC access & conservation officer
It’s easy to flick through Summit and go straight to the most impressive photos and stories from favourite athletes. But more and more I find myself reading the smaller columns, the ones explain all the work the BMC has been doing, the crags bought and mountains mended. It may have been the protocol and perks that got me through the door, but it’s the ideas of the people of the BMC that made me stay.”
Rory Southworth is a climber and editor-in-chief of the Adventure Crew:
www.adventurecrew.co.uk
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