BIG ROUTES
Despite preparing for ages for the challenge, I still had a couple of low points before setting off. I was at the end of a long climbing trip and I’d been beasting myself endlessly – loads of climbing massive roof cracks in the desert, running up and down big walls in Yosemite, and generally just living in the dirt for a good while. My rope solo objective was the last challenge of my trip and, by the time I got round to eventually going for it, I think I was just absolutely knackered. I had to take nearly a week off – total rest, literally did nothing – and then I felt ready. Things were going smoothly, but midway through the route I
started to get quite tired. It was the middle of the night – I’d decided to climb overnight for better conditions – and I had stomach cramps from constantly expending energy whilst trying to eat food. Then it was time for the Boulder Problem Pitch: the pitch of Freerider that has the hardest climbing on it. I hit my high point of the challenge here, as it completely went really quickly and efficiently. Even though I was really tired, and it has a techy V7ish slab crux, I polished it off really smoothly which felt really good, and I rode that confidence boost all the way to the top of the route.
SOLO SELFIES People will probably be surprised by the effort that goes into climbing alone. I filmed loads of little self-snippets at certain stages throughout the route, which are featured in the film being made about the whole challenge. You can really see the strain taking its toll physically and mentally as I get closer and closer to the end. And when I top out, I look grim; it’s hilarious! When you’re pushing yourself really, really hard, concentrating on safety and trying to get to the top with the clock ticking away, it becomes a right pain to get the camera out and take a little video. You basically can’t be bothered. However, looking back, I’m really glad I made the effort – it helps capture the effort, and the pain, really well. I believe the film covers a different aspect of climbing which nobody has captured before. There is barely any information on this style of climbing, never mind a film about it. So, hopefully it’ll be interesting to people and give an insight into a confusing world that not many people, not even many climbers, will actually understand or have heard about yet. It’s the first time I’ve ever done anything like this, but it’s just the
starting point isn’t it! I’ll definitely be heading back to Yosemite to work on new challenges. I have loads more ideas, especially in terms of 24-hour challenges. Whether I’ll be able to do them is another question though…
“I’LL DEFINITELY BE HEADING BACK TO YOSEMITE TO WORK ON NEW CHALLENGES. I HAVE LOADS MORE IDEAS.”
WITHOUT A PARTNER
WATCH:
Experience the feeling of pushing yourself on El Cap in the epic new film from BMC TV. Without a Partner, directed and edited by Adam Bailes, is a 26-minute insight into this vertical world. We’ll be showing it at this year’s Kendal Mountain Festival. All BMC members will then be emailed an exclusive code to watch it online. Supported by Wild Country and Five Ten.
R Relaxing on the classic
Separate Reality.
Words: Peter Burnside
R Rope soloing the down climb into the Monster Offwidth at around midnight.
Pete is an assistant editor for Summit. He currently has no plans to rope solo El Cap.
50 | CLIMB. WALK. JOIN.
PHOTO: DUSTIN MOORE.
PHOTO: DUSTIN MOORE.
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