SKYE After an overnight at the Glen Brittle Hut, we set off into a
murky morning, the Cuillin hills swathed in milky cloud. Me, Lou, Alex the photographer, Euan the cameraman and Dave the droneman. He looks like a Sherpa, bent against the bulk of his aircraft in its thick case. He forges on, a man on a mission. We pass the Eas Mor waterfall, surging into the gorge. Then we’re on the rock and scree, picking our way relentlessly up. There’s a faint path, testament to the Inn Pinn pull, but at times the line around the outcrops is far from clear. Lou yells ahead to tell Dave not to go left. His kit makes him two foot wider and top-heavy. He’s already gone left. That’s bad – it leads to a sketchy bit that’s narrow, loose and cliffy. He pops out of the murk eventually and I have the first of many moments of gratitude that I’m not on my own up here. Or in charge. With a few bits of grade one scrambling on the route, it’s a chance to remember all the useful (but not yet instinctive) tips I’ve amassed over the months – engage the core, use my toes, drop my heels, be precise with the footwork, keep my ankles, knees and hips stacked and flexed… And I find myself enjoying the adventure. Come on Inaccessible, bring it. Until we see the beast itself. Cue guttural grunting and dry mouth and slightly quaky legs and I feel a fraud again. If there were ever a mountain to call you out, it’s this one. Lou describes the route. “It gradually takes you up. It is very exposed…but take your time and you’ll love it.” To get to the bottom of the climb you drop 60m from the summit of Sgurr Dearg (The Red Peak, 978m) to a small grassy plateau. Lou and I climb in two pitches, the holds are smoothed and darkened from the sweaty grip of thousands of baggers and traversers and thrill seekers. I wonder again why I’m here and then look up and out. The cloud and mist has burned off and the full terrifying grandeur of the Black Cuillin is laid around and below me. An adventure playground for the brave. Glimmering in the blue ocean are the whaleback shapes of the other Hebridean islands. It’s breathtaking and I’m honoured to be clinging to this 12 inch fin of silliness, able to confirm that the Pilkingtons’ notorious route description ‘an overhanging and infinite drop on one side, and steeper and further on the other’, is absolutely correct. And then we’re at the top. The Pinnacle bagged. But I’m up here because of the prowess of others, and, it feels, because the Cuillin gave permission. Gerry Akroyd’s words from the Skye MRT come back to me. I’m standing on the Inaccessible. But I still fear it. I respect it. And I’m having a hell of a mountain day. I’ll be back.
INACCESSIBLE PINNACLE:
TRAVEL INFO Want to follow in Mary-Ann’s footsteps?
SKYE: THE CULLIN
SMC guide detailing all the summer and winter climbing in the Cuillin.
www.bmcshop.co.uk
SKYE GUIDES
Professional guiding and climbing instruction on the Isle of Skye since 1995.
www.skyeguides.co.uk
“THE HOLDS ARE SMOOTHED AND DARKENED FROM THE SWEATY GRIP OF THOUSANDS OF BAGGERS AND TRAVERSERS AND THRILL SEEKERS.”
GLEN BRITTLE MEMORIAL HUT A stunning hut, held in trust for the BMC and Mountaineering Scotland. Situated close to the Cuillins, the path to the Inn Pinn starts at the hut. Open all year to BMC members and BMC club members. Book online.
www.gbmh.co.uk
SLIGACHAN HOTEL
Essential climbers’ bar in a great location.
www.sligachan.co.uk
Words: Mary-Ann Ochota.
Mary-Ann is a BMC hill-walking ambassador. Follow her
@MaryAnnOchota.
HOW TO: WATCH INACCESSIBLE ON BMC TV:
Follow Mary-Ann on her journey to explore the inaccessible, in this new short film for BMC TV. Premiering at Kendal Mountain Festival, we’ll be sending a link to all BMC members to watch it (and more) over Christmas.
Thanks to Lowe Alpine and Rab for support.
56 | CLIMB. WALK. JOIN.
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