DESTINATIONS ANDALUSIA SPAIN & PORTUGAL


LEFT: Hotel Alfonso XIII, Seville


RIGHT: Córdoba


BELOW: Mezquita of Córdoba


inexpensive city, where tapas and flamenco culture play as big a part in the character as past glories. The superstar attraction is


Seville’s Gothic behemoth of a cathedral, constructed as an unashamed statement of intent. The 104-metre-tall Giralda tower – formerly a minaret from the days when a mosque was on the site – is generally regarded as the symbol of the city. Inside, the cathedral is so massive that it almost feels empty. There are plenty of heavily decorated chapels and side rooms full of treasures, but in between are vast expanses of bare, intimidating stone. The main event, however, is the ludicrous, grandstanding tomb of Christopher Columbus, which is raised in the air, held


The Barrio de Santa Cruz is cobbled, mazy and picturesque, while Triana is merrily unaffected


up by four statues. The only minor problem is that evidence suggests Columbus’ remains aren’t actually inside. From the cathedral, it’s only a


short walk to the Alcázar, one of the world’s most extraordinary buildings. It’s a fortified collection of palaces, of which the star is the Palacio del Rey Don Pedro. Blurring Spanish and Islamic


influences, it’s arguably the finest example of Andalusia’s distinctive Mudejar architectural style, with a cornucopia of colourful tiling and keyhole-shaped arches. The fountain-filled gardens – as seen in Game of Thrones – are also splendid, while the Admiral’s Hall was where Juan de la Cosa drew the first world map, and Magellan planned the first circumnavigation of the globe. Modern Seville is represented


by the gigantic, unforgettable Metropol Parasol, a wooden structure that sprawls over Plaza de la Encarnación and Santiago Calatrava’s Puente del Alamillo. This bridge spans the Guadalquivir River with a showy, leaning central pylon. But beyond the big attractions,


Seville is a delightful place to wander. The Barrio de Santa Cruz is cobbled, mazy and picturesque, while the Triana neighbourhood on the other side of the Guadalquivir is merrily unaffected. It’s a good spot for no-nonsense traditional restaurants and small ceramics factories that are open to the public. Stay: The Hotel Alfonso XIII is gloriously decadent, with lashings of superlative tile art, stunning dark wood ceilings and enormous chandeliers. Rooms come in three different styles – Andalusian, Castilian and Moorish – and there are three on-site restaurants. It’s the kind of place


102travelweekly.co.uk31 January 2019


for a special treat, with rates from €250 a night, plus tax. hotel-alfonsoxiii-seville.com


 CÓRDOBA Córdoba is quieter than Seville, but walking through its narrow labyrinth of streets at night is staggeringly evocative. It also has several layers of history to discover, dating back to Roman times. For almost 500 years, Córdoba


was the centre of an Islamic empire in Europe, producing polymaths, scholars and scientists still revered to this day. It was the enlightened hub of the Western world, while most of Europe slumbered through the Middle Ages. Preservation and restoration efforts have been impressive, leaving the city with an air of distinguished wisdom. The Palacio de Viana, a former


private palace that has been passed down through noble families, carries off the refinement vibe nicely. The guided tours around the house are a little take- it-or-leave-it, but the 12 courtyards the house is built around are heart-meltingly beautiful visions of citrus trees, tile art and bubbling water features. The Alcázar is more basic than its counterpart in Seville – it was more geared to military than commercial purposes – but it’s a pleasant spot for a stroll along the ramparts and through the terraced gardens before


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