DESTINATIONS
Land of giants
t
travelweekly.co.uk
Guyana is adventure travel as it used to be, but this South American spot won’t stay secret for long, finds Steph Dyson
he crunch of the tough grass beneath my feet threatened to give me away, but luck was on my side. Close enough to touch, the giant anteater
snoozed untroubled beneath the shade of a sandpaper tree, its coffee-coloured fur rippled gently by the breeze. Practically blind and deaf, these creatures measure up to seven feet and rely on an acute sense of smell, which must have alerted it to my presence as, without warning, it attempted a lumberingly comedic exit, white- striped front legs shuffling through the undergrowth as its chimney-brush tail swept the ground behind. It crashed blindly forward to within two metres of me, before finally stalking away into the long grass. This was my introduction to Guyana. On the Caribbean coast of South America, it boasts a vast area – 87% of its territory, or roughly the size of England – covered by inaccessible and, consequentially, pristine rainforest. More than 225 mammal species, many vulnerable to extinction, take refuge here. Giant river otters, giant anteaters and jaguars are among the region’s top draws, while birdwatchers can tick off more than 300 species in one trip, including the harpy eagle, the largest raptor in the Americas. However, even the most widely travelled could be
forgiven for struggling to place Guyana geographically. The country received just 6,500 UK visitors between November 2018 and October 2019, according to figures from Lata, and just 286,700 overall in 2018.
It’s this tantalising, off-the-map quality that grants the country a bewitching appeal to trailblazing travellers, but with an unexpected bonus. Guyana is South America’s only English-speaking nation, so interactions with local guides and experts require no translation. Yet the country is slowly finding its way out of obscurity. In the past two years, it has won award after award for its sustainable tourism and conservation. Community-led lodges have been central to this achievement and exist to protect – and introduce visitors to – a rich indigenous culture and abundance of biodiversity.
Giant river otters, giant anteaters and jaguars are among the region’s top draws, while birdwatchers can tick off 300 species in one trip
INTO THE UNKNOWN An adventurous spirit is a prerequisite here. Tours begin on the coast in capital city Georgetown and cross vast distances into the interior, with complicated and costly boat and flight logistics required. Small-group tours are therefore an expedient and cost-effective approach. Most visitors make a beeline for Kaieteur Falls, an hour’s flight from Georgetown. Somehow, these²
GUYANA | TIN AMERICA
20 FEBRUARY 2020
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