LATIN AMERICA BUENOS AIRES DESTINATIONS
churches and other 19th-century remnants that frame main square Plaza Dorrego.
13.30: Make a quick stop at hole- in-the-wall joint Nuestra Parrilla to sample one of Argentina’s best street food delicacies, choripan: a juicy chorizo sausage grilled on a parrilla and sandwiched between hunks of crusty bread, then covered with spicy-sweet chimichurri sauce. If you’re after something a little
larger, try La Brigada, one of the city’s best steakhouses, which serves short-rib roasts, sirloin and fillet steaks against a backdrop of wood furnishings and gaucho memorabilia.
15.00: Walk straight down Calle Defensa to reach Plaza de Mayo, set at the heart of the microcentro (city centre). Marked
Mothers of children abducted during the dictatorship have circled the square every week since 1977
out by a soaring white obelisk signifying the first anniversary of Argentine independence, it’s now the gathering point for protestors – most notably the mothers and grandmothers of children abducted during the military dictatorship in the late 1970s, who have been quietly circling the square every week since 1977. If you’re here at 3.30pm on a Thursday, you’ll see them – it’s a moving and sobering sight.
15.30: Bordering the square is the eye-popping government house, Casa Rosada, the iconic, pink palace that’s home to the president’s offices. Free guided tours are available on Saturdays and Sundays, and there’s a fascinating museum that tells you all about its history.
16.30: Walk east along Avenida de Mayo to reach Cafe Tortoni – one of the city’s oldest and most famous coffee houses, where deep-fried, satisfyingly crisp churros are served with rich, creamy hot chocolate. Founded in 1858, it’s seen everyone from Albert Einstein to tango king Carlos Gardel sweep through its doors. Today, it keeps its historic air with marble-topped tables, wood panels and a Tiffany glass ceiling the backdrop for regular tango shows.
18.00: If you’ve still got energy, wander over to the almighty Avenida Corrientes, the city’s answer to Broadway (albeit a little shabbier), lined with theatres, pizzerias and gelaterias. Check out Teatro Colon, the city’s lavish opera house, and duck in to Cadore for mounds of deliciously smooth dulce de leche ice cream.
20.00: No trip here would be complete without witnessing a tango show, so head to historic, wood-furnished tango hall La Ventana for a three-course meal followed by an all-out, seriously impressive spectacle; expect intimate, sensual dances, powerful vocal performances and big, twirling ballet troupes donning feather-bedecked costumes (prices from $120, including wine).
19 July 2018
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