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flavours, sublime. Chris showcased his new menu
for us with starters of Beesands crab katsu curry (two fabulously light crab and rice dumplings nestling in perfectly balanced spicy-sweet katsu sauce) and broad bean risotto with sunshine bright confit brown butter egg yolk, hazelnut crumb and aged parmesan sauce, with the ‘green’ freshness of the beans singing out loud. Selections for our main courses
were, firstly, a Devon spring lamb plate comprising crumbed cutlets and slow cooked lamb shoulder pommes anna served with courgette and mint purée, tenderstem broccoli delicately drizzled with truffle oil and a richly delicious lamb jus. The cutlets were pink, moist, tender … the long slow braising of the shoulder had intensified the depth of flavour in the glorious meaty layer below the softly yielding potato wafers. Secondly, Beesands
lobster thermidor with pickled fennel, apple and watercress salad. The dish is usually accompanied by skinny fries but we passed on those to leave room for
puds! Our local seafood is second to none and, in the hands of such a capable chef, both the lobster and the crab shone through but the true revelation on the plate was the crunchy slaw-style salad. Sizzling with chilli from the pickled fennel, the green, tart, apple still crisp, pungent peppery watercress, this exploded on our taste buds with pops of flavours. The puds we saved room for? The
White Hart chocolate bar - layers of coffee ganache, hazelnut praline, chocolate cremeaux and hazelnut shortbread encased in thick, dark not-quite-bitter chocolate served with honeycomb and coffee cream; a delightful bombe of frozen raspberry mousse, mirror glazed, atop crushed meringue, fresh raspberries and home-made lavender ice-cream. The skill and
inventiveness in those two dishes alone would merit a visit. I trust I may never have to wait so long again before a return trip to enjoy yet more of this exciting chef’s talents. To summarise, in Su’s words
… “every dish was so perfectly balanced; nothing competed for top spot; it was all in complete harmony”. Chris had paired our dishes with
an interesting choice from his carefully curated wine list – a 2016 Alberino displaying the classic peach and lime flavours of this almost mythical grape, older and with a history more fascinating than the White Hart itself. If you have not tried this wine before, it is a perfect choice with seafood, especially oysters. It is hard to conceive that one can enjoy such quality and creativity at such incredibly reasonable prices but you truly can, for both lunch or dinner. We have longed for the opportunity to dine out again, safely, so why not make it memorable? I defy anyone to leave without a smile on their faces after enjoying Chris’ cuisine. We certainly did! See advert below to book.
White Hart Summer menu
Hotel rooms
available with large en suite bathrooms
Te White Hart Inn Modbury Starters
Modbury
Fresh local food, cooked daily Everything handmade with care Mon - Sun, lunch & dinner
To reserve your table telephone:
01548 830652 07804 477271
Large function room perfect for parties
the_white_hart_inn_modbury Starters
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