Twisted classic: AW18 presents a contemporary peacoat


collection? “One of the things would be the 1771 Crown logo which we have made quite a signature mark,” says John. “We want to keep using the identifiers within the brand – so we’ve got the Crown 1771 and the rope & knot that we will keep weaving into collections going forward. I like to go back to see what there is in the archive to try and draw out the collection from that instead of just picking things randomly.


and naval history. I also like the use of English textiles within the collection. We’ve used a lot of the woollens and weavings with UK-based mills. In term of garments, standouts would be the laminated sou’wester which is a technical reworking of a classic sou’wester coat and there’s the peacoat, our iconic piece, which is a really beautiful modern slice of history. “At Gieves and Hawkes, a lot of the ideas come from the heritage of the company. We know our history of tailoring and we are trying to make that history become modern again for contemporary customers. To have such a great history in terms of techniques, quality, craftsmanship, all these things are influential for the here and now. I take some inspiration from the car industry. It’s fascinating to see how that has adapted and changed. Big brands like Range Rover, Bentley or Rolls-Royce have not lost their identity but the cars are bang up to date. When you get in one, you recognise it immediately, you know where that car came from. You know its history and I try to apply the same rules here.


W 32 SAVILE ROW STYLE MAGAZINE


e found some old naval rum bottles with sea creatures around it, which gave us the idea to use an octopus motif on some products which fitted in well with our seafaring


WE KNOW OUR HISTORY OF TAILORING AND WE ARE TRYING TO MAKE THAT HISTORY MODERN AGAIN


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