NEWS
Masterclass: Giles Burke-Gaffney (right) explains the finer points of vintage champagne
be it their brut tradition, Blanc de Noirs or the jewel in their crown Clos des Goisses, the 2007 being the current release. There are also some truly wonderful growers’ champagnes out there, Egly Ouriet being one to look out for if you like champagnes with rich, toasty, red fruit flavours. His old vines Les Crayeres blend is memorable.” Giles knew from quite a young age that he wanted to work in the wine trade. “I have been fascinated by wines ever since my father, a barrister, starting sharing wonderful old bottles of claret and burgundy with me,” he said. “Not only were they delicious but they all tasted different and each had a story to tell. I find the skill,
their understanding of nature and determination of fine wine growers completely inspiring. “I was lucky enough to begin
at Justerini & Brooks in 1997 as a cellar hand. Our spiritual home has always been Piccadilly - for more than 200 years we had a shop in this area before moving everything to
Justerinis.com - so, when I began, I was selling from our office in St James’s Street. I was always spell-bound by the amazing aromas while decanting wines for the lunches that took place in the dining room at St James’s Street and now, 20 years later, I still have a great passion for the job.” Over time, Giles honed his palate – “With great enthusiasm,”
he admits – and wine knowledge under the tutelage of the-then buying director (now chairman) Hew Blair, before taking on the role himself in 2012. “However the learning never stops, there is always something new to discover,” he adds. “Our customer base is such a broad spectrum. It is such a wide-ranging list of people from entrepreneurs, city folk and lawyers, to actors & actresses and sports people, particularly polo players.” (The company’s headline sponsorship of British Polo Day might explain that one.) As the evening comes to a
Three of the best: Philipponnat Close des Goisses (top), Egly Oriet (middle), and Philipponnat 1552
close and with only time for one more glass – a Philipponnat, Cuvee 1522, 2007 – I wonder whether I have chosen the wrong career, I ask Giles whether his job, which seems to revolve around travelling the world drinking and talking about champagne, has a downside. “Very few,” he admits. “You get bored of airports and missing out on family time is a potential pitfall but I love it.” n
SAVILE ROW STYLE MAGAZINE 15
Something to savour: Giles Burke-Gaffney (left) curates champagne from around the world
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