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CONTENTS


Festive sales melt away in the snow


Unless you are aged fi ve and own a sledge, a blanket of snow is not the sight anyone wants to be greeted with fi rst thing in the morning. If you’re a retailer, the pain of icy roads and icy blasts is even more biting. That the snow fell in the same week the big kick-off of Christmas


Show Calendar p37


shopping was expected is pretty typical of British weather, and its impact on sales has been signifi cant. According to the BDO High Street Sales Tracker, clothing sales rose 0.4% for the week ended November 28 – they


had been trending towards 5% or above in previous weeks. Some high street chains were unable to open certain


Chester Barrie p23


branches – Bluewater shopping centre was one of the most high profi le locations to suff er – because staff couldn’t make it to work. Not that there were many shoppers around to serve of course. Meanwhile, indies suff ered even greater pains, particularly those with destination shops in more remote locations, as consumers opted to stay at home in the warm. Some retailers did benefi t though as sales of winter boots


accelerated (BDO recorded a 13.2% lift in footwear sales last week) and knitted accessories like gloves and scarves heated up. But we now need a thaw to last through to December 24 if


If you’re a retailer, the pain of icy roads and icy blasts is even more biting


the forecast for a good fashion Christmas is to stay on track. Separately, pictures of Tom Ford’s long-awaited womenswear collection were published


7 For All Mankind p18


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Job of the week Ecommerce manager, Choice p69


this week (to see it go to www.drapersonline.com and search for ‘Tom Ford’). It is Ford all over, with echoes of the handwriting he honed while at Gucci, but having seen the clothes I can’t quite see why he was so precious about holding back the photos. They’re beautiful yes, but apart from a leopard-print maxi there isn’t much for the high street to rip off here. Jessica Brown Editor


News


02 General 08 News Analysis 14 Off The Record


Comment & Analysis


10 Indicator Sales and trading news from the UK’s premium independents 15 Your Say Letters and online comments, plus the week’s fashion tweets 20 Webwatch Premium retailer Ted Baker exploited all of ecommerce’s new tricks in its latest campaign 67 Careers Duck And Cover’s Robert Beirne gives an insight into life as a young fashion brand designer


Features


18 Shop Watching LA premium denim brand 7 For All Mankind opens the doors to its new London flagship 23 Brandwatch Tailoring brand Chester Barrie aims to recapture former glories 24 The Drapers Interview Cos’s Pernilla Wohlfahrt and Rebekka Bay reveal the premium chain’s formula for success 26 High Street Preview H&M, Reiss and River Island are among the brand’s showing off their spring 11 collections 34 Find a Way Forward How Mary Portas has stepped in to help turn around Kent womenswear indie The Find


37 Show Calendar Your essential guide to the major trade shows and events for the autumn 11 season and beyond 80 This Fashion Life Luke Roper, creative director of young fashion brand Luke


GLOBAL ECOMMERCE Drapers examines the benefits and challenges of international ecommerce and asks some of the biggest retailers what their online focus will be in 2011 to ensure expansion, at: www.drapersonline.com/ ecommerce/international/


December 3 2010 Drapers 1


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