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is essentially two volcanoes joined by a flat valley filled with pineapple farms. But fear not – the last eruption was in 1790. Once the ancient seat of Hawaiian royalty, today it’s where celebs hang out. Oprah Winfrey has a ranch here and you’ll soon notice even local shops are kitted out to suit a more discerning clientele. All this provides a backdrop for various exclusive beach resorts along the island’s 120-mile coastline and plenty of activities. Exploring the sunken Molokini volcanic crater
has to count as a unique Hawaiian experience on my trip, but it was closer to shore that I had my major wow-factor moment, when I spotted a sea turtle swimming right before my eyes. Wailea on the island’s south shore is home
to beachfront properties such as Four Seasons Maui and Fairmont Kea Lani, but Hotel Wailea, where I stayed, is set 100 metres above sea level and is a little different. The 72-suite boutique hotel is the first Relais & Chateaux property in Hawaii and this former private members’ club has also undergone a £10.5 million redesign. Set in 15 acres of gardens teaming with cascading waterfalls and expansive koi ponds,
the ocean-view rooms are housed in standalone buildings and feel exceptionally private – a great pay-off for being slightly inland. The suites are to die for – a mix of indigenous style (lots of natural materials) with luxury chic (very small cakes under enormous bell-jars and a bathtub you could swim in). I felt very zen at Hotel Wailea. The spa – to
be located in a treehouse nuzzled between the canopies of whopping great mango and avocado trees – was under construction during my visit, but wellness pervades elsewhere anyway. Ingredients used by onsite restaurant
Capische? are grown in the garden, free shuttle services run to the beach club and while there are complimentary yoga classes available, there’s free mixology classes every Saturday too – everything in moderation, as they say. My final stop was Big Island, where the
largest enclave of properties sits along the lava coast of Kailua-Kona. You can helicopter to the active lava flows from here (around £140 for an hour with Blue Hawaiian), or, like me, get rained off and fly instead to towering coastal
waterfalls. The latter is a popular option among nervous men waiting to pop the question, my pilot tells me. But the Sheraton Kona Resort here has a
special attraction of its own, too – one that saw me don a wetsuit to bob around in the open ocean in the dark of night. Other guests may describe the experience of snorkelling with manta rays as serene, or like an underwater ballet, but don’t believe them. Fair Wind takes groups out nightly (£80pp) but you’re made of stronger stuff than me if you don’t find the sight of a three metre-wide fish swimming at you with speed, mouth wide open, vaguely alarming. It’s handy that in a snorkel mask, no one can hear you scream. I do admit, though, that watching them emerge from the depths to feed on the plankton attracted by huge spotlights was pretty special. Even for a scaredy cat like me.
Pictured 1. Helicopter tour, Hawaii 2. Sea turtle 3. Ahi, a local delicacy 4. Suite at Four Seasons Maui 5. Molokini crater 6. Surfing on the north shore
DESTINATIONS SPRING 2016
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