THE WASHINGTON POST • FRIDAY, OCTOBER 8, 2010
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NightLife New wine bars set themselves apart by Fritz Hahn It was only a few years ago that every oth-
er new bar opening was a wine bar. In 2007 alone, we welcomed Veritas, Cork, Proof, Vi- noteca and Sova. But these things wax and wane, and cocktail bars came back to the fore. This year, however, we’ve seen a few new wine bars arrive on the scene, all of- fering something beyond the usual pinot- and-charcuterie formula.
Twisted Vines Bottleshop & Bistro 2803 Columbia Pike, Arlington. 571-482- 8581.
www.twisted-vines.com. Set in a storefront along a busy stretch of Columbia Pike, Twisted Vines Bottleshop & Bistro looks the part of the hip neighbor- hood spot — white Christmas lights outline the large front windows, which are hung with heavy red curtains. Chalkboards be- hind the bar list six or seven red and white wines, ports and beers available by the glass, and the night’s specials. You’ll find moms with babies, women sharing prosecco, couples on dates. And probably, Christian Licona, a 25-year-old IT professional who has been to the bar about once a week since moving to Arlington from Gainesville, Fla., last month. “I love the look of the place,” he says. “It’s pretty chic. And the wine selection is really good, especially as far as price goes.” His tip: Stop by on Thursday, when all beer is half-price from 4 to 7 p.m., including 22-ounce bottles of Rogue Hazelnut Brown Nectar for only $5, or on Tuesday for $5 glasses of wine. Before owner Sybil Robinson and her husband, Josh, thought of opening Twisted Vines, she says, they were in love with wine, taking classes and touring France and Italy to learn more. One night, in Mendoza, Ar- gentina, while watching the sunset after fin- ishing “a five-course meal paired with amazing wines,” the couple decided they wanted to bring that atmosphere back to Arlington’s Columbia Pike neighborhood, where the couple has lived “for a long time.” They used their knowledge of wine to pick about 100 bottles, two dozen of which are sold by the glass. The selections change monthly, while the flights are more season- al. The current offering of Ra Ra Reds — “perfect for a tailgate” — mixed big, rich pi- not, tempranillo and red zinfandel flavors, all of which are available on the by-the-glass list. (At Friday’s happy hour, flights of three wines are $9.50, or $5 off the regular price.) My only complaint: The boards don’t have vintages on them, so you have to ask if you’re curious. Unlike other venues that combine a bar and takeout operation, Twisted Vines doesn’t overemphasize the shop, which is tucked in the back. It’s easier to order from the bistro’s wine list: Pick a bottle you like and take it home for $15 less than the res- taurant’s price. Twisted Vines has a real community feel;
on Wednesday, the bar holds its second Stroller Happy Hour for neighborhood moms from 3 to 5 p.m. “We had about 30
PHOTOS BY EVY MAGES FOR THE WASHINGTON POST About 100 bottles of wines are for sale at Twisted Vines Bottleshop & Bistro, a new wine bar on Columbia Pike in Arlington.
moms and 30-plus kids” at the first one in September, Robinson says, adding that it will probably become a monthly fixture.
The Tasting Room 5330A Western Ave., Chevy Chase. 301-664-9494.
www.thetastingroomwinebar.com. There are two ways to approach wine at
the Tasting Room, the third location of the wine bar chain owned and operated by John Kent Cooke’s Boxwood Winery. First, grab a seat in the minimalist room — the black and steel decor makes it look like a high-end coffee shop — or one of the tables on the sidewalk patio. Peruse the menu of wines and charcute-
rie. You can pick any of two dozen wines (most $7 to $15) or short flights (about $15) and order from one of the servers, or serve
yourself. Buy a special card and load it with at least $10. Then wander around the high- tech enomatic wine dispensing machines until you see a bottle that looks interesting. Put your card in the machine, stick your glass under the spout and pick the number of ounces you want (one, three or five, at prices ranging from $2 to $5 per ounce). The 16 reds and eight whites are selected by Stéphane Derenoncourt, the famed French winemaker who serves as a consultant on Boxwood’s vineyards. The quality is one of the reasons doing it for yourself is probably the way to go. I’ve found service to be slow, though helpful with opinions about various wines. It’s worth a visit on Wednesday or Friday evenings,when a keyboardist sets up in the corner and jams on “Autumn Leaves,” “The Girl From Ipanema” and “Black Magic Woman,” singing in multiple languages. Kind of quirky, and more laid- back than the nearby Capital Grille if you need a post-shopping pick-me- up.
Because this is a wine shop, all full bottles are for sale to go at $10 off the menu price.
Ripple 3417 Connecti-
cut Ave. NW. 202-244- 7995.
www.rippledc.com. Opening a wine bar is
Christian Licona, below, enjoys a glass of red wine and tuna tartar at Twisted Vines’ counter.
Cleveland Park is a tricky proposition. Bardeo and Dino, which sit on the same Connecticut Av- enue strip, are known for pairing wine and cuisine.
Meanwhile, on the Wisconsin Avenue side of the ’hood, the wine bar Enology went out of business pretty quickly. Ripple opened in May in a former cigar- and-martini refuge and has developed into a solid neighborhood option. (Part of this is due to staffing choices: Brian Cook, former- ly the sommelier at Sonoma, and manager Danny Fisher, who came from Cork, know their way around wine bars.) The space is colorful and fun, from the
mismatched fabrics on stools to the broken mosaic tiles on the bar, left over from the Aroma days. One major addition: a cheese and charcuterie station at the end of the bar, where meat and cheese are sliced to or- der. Thus far, complaints about Ripple have mainly been about price. The menu kicks off with a “6 for 6” section — a half-dozen picks from around the world for $6. But when you browse the full list, there are a number of glasses in the $10-$16 range, es- pecially among the reds. What I missed the first time: All glasses can be cut down to a three-ounce pour for half the price. Don’t expect the dainty servings found at
typical wine bars. Ripple’s bartenders offer heartier five- or six-ounce pours. “We want you to have a good time,” my bartender ex- plained one night. Fair enough. But it is a little more expensive on some bottles. One night, a date and I stopped in after visiting the Tasting Room in Chevy Chase. She’d just had a glass of the Isole e Olena Chianti for $8 at the Tasting Room, so she was sur- prised to see it for $15 at Ripple. “Ripple was a larger pour, but . . .” My sentiments exact- ly. You can drink well at Ripple, but watch your wallet.
fritz.hahn@washingtonpost.com
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