Y OUR @BritishMountaineeringCouncil @Team_BMC teambmc WATCH:
tv.thebmc.co.uk @BritishMountaineeringCouncil
“It’s easy to find out if a crag is restricted: check the new and improved Regional Access Database online (
www.thebmc.co.uk/rad) where you can now post updates about crags and check the latest news.”
@Team_BMC teambmc Rob Dyer, BMC access & conservation officer PEAK: Horseshoe Quarry
Several of the boulders blocking access to vehicles into the quarry were moved recently. They have been replaced, but please contact us if you see similar in future. Horseshoe is designated as open access on foot to the public, but there is no access for vehicles.
PEAK: Eastern Edges
Ring ouzel nesting season is here and the Eastern Moors Partnership is looking for volunteers to help with monitoring nest sites across the Eastern Moors, Stanage, Burbage valley and Millstone. Training is provided and no prior experience is needed. If you can spare 1-2 days a month between April and July, please contact John Mead at:
john.mead@
rspb.org.uk
LAKES: Great End
A new winter conditions monitoring system has been installed on Great End providing hourly temperature updates direct from the base of the crag. The aim is to provide better information for planning a day out in the Lakes, avoiding wasted trips when conditions are marginal, and reducing damage to rare arctic alpine plants (not to mention crucial turf placements).
CHECK IT LIVE NOW:
www.thebmc.co.uk/great-end-winter-conditions
LAKES: Langdale Boulders
After meeting the National Trust (the landowner), the BMC funded some discreet stone pitching to repair muddy landings under some of the Langdale Boulders. The stile leading over the drystone wall has also been repaired meaning it is much easier to move around the boulders.
SOUTH WEST: Ban y Gor
Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust (GWT) the landowner of Ban-y-Gor and a significant chunk of Wintour’s Leap – has raised serious concerns about new routing activity and cleaning around the Main Cliff. A closure of all climbing beyond Ladder Gully was initially requested by GWT, but the BMC has negotiated continued access to the most significant part of Main Cliff (the Head Sector and everything right of this) subject to a new code of conduct:
• All routes left of the Head Sector (beyond Heady Days) are temporarily banned for 2017 and this restriction will be reviewed in 2018.
• No access to the upper tier.
• Stick to existing paths to avoid further damage to sensitive habitats.
• No cutting trees anywhere on the crag or site.
• Take all litter home, even if it’s not yours. • No fires. No camping. No bivvying. • No new routing.
Please ensure you follow this code to the letter at Ban-y-Gor. Continued access depends on climbers demonstrating good behaviour, and the situation will be reviewed in 2018 with potential for the BMC to argue for increased access if the code of conduct has been followed.
GOGARTH: Parliament Cave North Stack
A substantial rock-fall has wiped out most of the aid routes at this venue, including Doug Scott’s classic aid route Big Roof. It seems that much of the cave roof has collapsed and more loose rock remains. Best avoided!
LLANBERIS SLATE: Trango and Peppermint Towers
Due to a large rock-fall that threatens the safety of the power station buildings, there are significant ground works being carried out at this location by the landowners. It’s likely that the routes on Trango towers will be permanently affected by the works and access to this whole area should be avoided while the works are ongoing.
PANDY OUTCROP: Clwyd Area
The land on which this crag lies is being sold at auction by the current owners (Wrexham Council) in late March and it’s not known what the views of the new owners towards access for climbing will be. We will contact the new owners (when they are known) to negotiate continued access. Following the sale, report any access issues back to the BMC.
SNOWDONIA: Hydro Schemes
The National Trust will likely submit planning applications for at least three new hydro schemes on upland streams in the Ogwen Valley in late spring. The BMC will scrutinise these and produce a response to ensure member views are taken into account.
SNOWDONIA: Snowdon Ranger Path
Snowdonia National Park, with funding from the Welsh Government, is substantially upgrading car parking facilities and increasing capacity at the start of Snowdon Ranger Path. This welcome news should help ease congestion at busy times.
Check
www.thebmc.co.uk/rad for the latest access advice For more competitions see
www.thebmc.co.uk/competitions 78 | CLIMB. WALK. JOIN. ACCESS BRIEFING WATCH:
tv.thebmc.co.uk
This year’s competition season is just getting started and already we’ve seen some incredible action. The British Bouldering Championships will be the highlight again this year and will build on the sensational success of last year. If you can’t make it to Sheffield to watch it all in person, don’t miss the livestream that last year saw an awesome 10,000 total unique views.
BMC Youth Climbing Series Final
29 Apr, Edinburgh International Climbing Arena
After seeing hundreds of our young talent try their hardest across the country, the top three climbers from previous rounds come together from 11 regions to battle it out for podium places in the Grand Final of this fun youth event.
www.thebmc.co.uk/ycs
Junior British Bouldering Championships 17 Jun, The Depot Manchester
A fun, friendly event at the world-class bouldering centre in Manchester. Come show off your skills and be in with a chance to make the 2018 GB Junior Bouldering Team.
Senior British Bouldering Championships 8-9 Jul, Sheffield
After last year’s roaring success, the unmissable event for all competitive boulderers in Britain is back! Battle it out on world-cup style problems against competitors from all over the nation and some from abroad! Don’t forget, it counts towards team selection for the 2018 GB Senior Bouldering Team too.
Open competitions:
BMC Lead Cup Round 1 – Open to both Juniors & Seniors
1 Apr, Reading Climbing Centre
Open Youth Bouldering Competition 2 Apr, Oakwood Climbing Centre, Wokingham
Welsh Climbing Championships & BMC Lead Cup Round 2
3 Jun, Beacon Climbing Centre, Caenarfon
LATEST ACCESS UPDATES
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