Eating FIRST BITE CHEF’S CHOICE


f Botanica ttttt The market offerings inside


f Tallula’s ttttt Find beachy Tulum–inspired designs, sustainable


ingredients and house-made tortillas at this modern Mexican venture from the Rustic Canyon family. Share ceviche and a sheet pan of nachos with cotija and fontina before digging into a plate of comforting lamb birria, duck chilaquiles, fish tacos or chicken with mole. Sip market-fresh margs or consider ordering an Avocado-lada with rum and falernum or the Uplifter with reposado and cinnamon syrup. à 118 Entrada Dr, Santa Monica (310-526-0027, tallulasrestaurant.com)


d Rossoblu ttttt Chef Steve Samson scores big with


this stunning ode to Italy’s Emilia- Romagna region. Kick off the meal with salumi and a Swiss chard erbazzone tart with stracchino. Savor rich, handmade pastas like tortelloni with ricotta and tagliatelle bolognese, then settle into tender milk-braised pork shoulder, brick chicken or your favorite parts from a wood-fired suckling pig. Clever cocktails celebrate Italian spirits, while the wine list features excellent sparkling options. à 1124 San Julian St (213-749-1099, rossoblula.com)


s Mama Lion ttttt Chef Michael Hung shows off his globally


minded expertise at this sleek K-town supper club. Start with refreshing bites like hamachi tartare or Isaan-style sausages, then indulge in seared foie gras—and don’t miss the shrimp with umami-packed anchovy butter. The bucatini with asparagus, sausage and a 63-degree egg puts on a great performance, but the chicken schnitzel is the dish that unexpectedly steals the show. à 601 S Western Ave (213-377-5277, mamalion.com)


Time Out Los Angeles July 12–October 10, 2017 34


Botanica give you an idea of the menu here: local produce, biodynamic wines, fresh bread and Middle Eastern spices. In the luminous dining room or plant- adorned patio, the cassoulet vert is a brightly herbaceous affair with heirloom beans and garlicky pistou with greens, while the spiced lamb skewers delight with sumac yogurt and a towering salad. à 1620 Silver Lake Blvd (323-522-6106, botanicarestaurant.com)


Evan Funke Felix


à 1023 Abbot Kinney Blvd, Venice (424-387-8622, felixla.com)


There’s no L.A. chef more passionate about pasta than Evan Funke, formerly of Rustic Canyon (rusticcanyonwinebar .com) and the now-shuttered Bucato. At Felix, Abbot Kinney’s new trattoria, Funke makes pasta by hand (188 distinct shapes!) in a glass-walled, temperature-controlled room for all his guests to see. We caught up with the pasta purveyor about a few of his local favorites.


Go-to meal


“I’ve studied cacio e pepe for 10 years and it never gets old. I think my iteration stands alone in L.A.”


Cooking close to the ground “Felix is 95 percent farmers’ market– driven. I shop at the Santa Monica and Hollywood Farmers’ Markets


(smgov.net/portals/farmersmarket; hollywoodfarmersmarket.net). We work with 17 different farmers, each with a specific microclimate that makes their produce different.”


Downtime dinners


“I haven’t taken a day off yet! I love eating at Jon [Shook] and Vinny [Dotolo]’s places; they just do exceptional work.”


Good company


“It’s been a dream of mine to cook on this street for 10 years. The high concentration of tastemakers we’re surrounded by—Tasting Kitchen (the tastingkitchen.com), Gjelina (gjelina .com)—and their longevity—it’s great company to be in.”


PHOTOGRAPHS (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT): RICK POON; ALAN GASTELUM; COURTESY EVAN FUNKE; ACUNA HANSEN; ED ANDERSON


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