Eating
PHOTOGRAPHS (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT): JACLYN RIVAS; MAX HERMAN; COURTESY MFK; CHELSEA ROSS; ANDREW NAWROCKI
On our radar The Blanchard The Blanchard Wyler Road
When the Brown Sack closed in Logan Square, the Burlington team reopened the space as an utterly charming sandwich spot. Open from 11am until midnight during the week and until 2am on weekends, Wyler Road works for both low-key lunches over pickle- topped Reubens, and date-night cocktails and bar snacks. Finish with spiked floats, like the Fernet Cow, made of house-made Fernet ice cream, then topped with Coke and Letherbee Fernet. TRY: The cheese curds, light and perfectly fried with fried basil and ranch dipping sauce. 3581 W Belden Ave (773-661-0675,
wylerroad.com)
French cuisine feels fresh at this elegant-yet-unstuffy Lincoln Park restaurant. Chef Jason Paskewitz’s menu is packed with traditional dishes like Dover sole, but he makes genius twists, encasing foie gras in a black-truffle crust, for example. Sommelier Anthony Mathieu and bartender Arunas Bruzas pour excellent French wines and classic cocktails, and pastry chef Marjorie Easley ends the meal perfectly with a pistachio bombe. TRY: Oeuf outhier, which pairs airy whipped eggs and caviar in a delicate eggshell topped with vodka-scented crème fraîche. 1935 N Lincoln Park West (872-829-3971,
theblanchardchicago.com)
NEVER FORGET
Sabatino’s
Few restaurants hold the unexpected magic of a time machine, but step inside this North Side Italian gem and the spell is set. Sabatino’s has all the retro charm that today’s hip Italian spots can’t seem to echo— servers wear tuxedos, the tables are set with fresh flowers and violinists serenade diners in the candlelight. When ordering, it’s hard to make a mistake amid the menu of old-school classics, like tender veal saltimbocca in a sage wine sauce, hearty eggplant parm, or the baked Alaska for two, which is lit at the table with festive sparklers. Any occasional imperfection seems charming in the atmospheric glow, which excellent red sauce and generous pours of wine bolster. Even after all these years, Sabatino’s still has us enchanted. 4441 W Irving Park Rd (773-283-8331, sabatinos
chicago.com).—Rebecca Skoch
I mfk.
Via Lima Via Lima Wyler Road
If you can’t manage a winter escape this year, get a taste of bright Peruvian flavors at this lively North Center restaurant. The menu focuses on the country’s classics, like causitas, which are whipped potatoes topped with crabmeat; a variety of piquant ceviches; and several takes on traditional pisco
sours, including a habanero- pepper-laced version. TRY: The rocoto relleno, which combines sliced potatoes beneath a fiery pepper stuffed with beef, raisins and veggies, and smothered in melted Havarti. 4024 N Lincoln Ave (773-348- 4900,
vialimachicago.com)
MOLLY O., LOGAN SQUARE “Whether it’s anchovies and a Schlitz or txakolina and a cobia collar, this place is my dream.”
LEAVE YOUR OWN REVIEW
timeout.com/reviewchicago
December 2015–February 2016
TIMEOUT.COM/CHICAGO 35
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