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Write your Eating The Duck Inn Pub Royale The Duck Inn Bom Bolla


Raising the bar


The city’s bars are bringing their food A-game. By Amy Cavanaugh


When you used to get hungry at the bar, you’d order a cheap burger or something fried to see you through the night. If you were super desperate: bar nuts. Now, you can snack on salt-cod samosas, pork tonkatsu or a calamari bocadillo while imbibing. Welcome to the golden age of bar food, when you’re just as likely to go to bars—like these five—for a great meal as you are a great drink.


Momotaro Izakaya


The dark basement bar below the lively upstairs restaurant is ideal for quiet nights with a glass of


Analogue


Japanese whiskey or sake. Sushi and grilled items from upstairs are available, but the izakaya-only menu is filled with gems; try the crab-salad-stuffed deviled eggs, übercrispy fried chicken and tender planks of pork tonkatsu. 820 W Lake St (312-733-4818, momotarochicago.com)


Pub Royale British-Indian fare turns out to be a 34 TIMEOUT.COM/CHICAGO December 2015–February 2016


truly excellent drinking food, particularly when paired with an ever-changing list of draft beers and ciders. Chef Jason Vaughan zeroes in on the intersection between the two cuisines, with dishes like buttered paneer (cheese cubes in a spicy tomato sauce), samosas packed with salt cod and potatoes, and lamb dumplings in chili oil. 2049 W Division St (773-661-6874, pubroyale.com)


Chef Kevin Hickey knows his way around bar food, and his Bridgeport restaurant proves it. Super lightly fried cheese curds come with tangy aquavit-laced Bloody Mary ketchup, the hamburger sandwich is topped with a thick cap of grilled Brun- uusto cheese and the duck-fat dog is a seriously good sausage. 2701 S Eleanor St (312-724-8811, theduckinnchicago.com)


Analogue


Robby Haynes and Henry Prendergast mix some killer cocktails at this low-key Logan Square bar, where Alfredo Nogueira serves superlative Cajun food, like piquillo peppers stuffed with crawfish tails mixed with rémoulade, a lovely smoked fish dip with saltines and house hot sauce, and a luscious gumbo. 2523 N Milwaukee Ave (773-904- 8567, analoguechicago.com)


Bom Bolla


Spanish aperitifs, like cava, are pretty much designed to make you hungry, so it’s a relief Bom Bolla’s food menu is so good. Snack on olives soaking in fino sherry, clams bathing in vermouth and salsa verde, and a sandwich of tender fried squid with saffron aioli. 1501 N Milwaukee Ave (773-698-6601, bombollabar.com)


own review at timeout.com/ reviewchicago


Edited by


Amy Cavanaugh food.chi@timeout.com @AmyCavanaugh


Eating


PHOTOGRAPHS: TOP LEFT, TOP RIGHT: MARTHA WILLIAMS; BOTTOM RIGHT: COURTESY PUB ROYALE; CENTER: NICK MURWAY


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