San Diego Reader November 3, 2016 47
served with a vegan crème fraîche, a cinnamony apple- and-pear compote, and scat- tered scallions ($9). The key to the dish was the compote, the sweetness of which blended well with the slight sourness of the crème fraîche. We also tried two forms of
avocado toast, a sort-of Shel- don’s house specialty. The za’atar ($9) has a dol-
lop of Greek yogurt, slivers of watermelon radish, and a soft- boiled egg on multigrain bread. It gets its name from za’atar, a Middle Eastern spice blend including thyme, oregano, and marjoram, among other herbs. The toast could have been a
little crispier, but the avocado was creamy, the egg was nice and runny, and it was hearty but not a gut-busting way to start the day. The Milanese version ($13)
had arugula, burrata cheese, and tomatoes with some driz- zled balsamic syrup. This was slightly sweeter than the za’atar and the burrata cheese played well with the avocado. Each plate comes with two
slices. In the future, I hope they offer a half-and-half option. They do lunch well at Shel-
don’s. The quinoa salad ($11) features roasted butternut squash, dried cranberries, green beans, pepitas, and pomegranate seeds. Quinoa, like rice, has little flavor on its own, but it’s a good carrier. The salad is unique in that there is no dressing — the sweetness of the cranberries and pomegran- ate seeds do most of the heavy lifting in that regard. It works well if you plan to make sure each bite doesn’t just have qui- noa. It’s a good, healthy lunch.
The BLAT sandwich ($9.50)
is a flavor bomb: thick slices of bacon along with lettuce, avo- cado, and a sun-dried tomato spread. It is perfect for those of us who can’t get enough bacon in their BLT. I am a big fan of the alba-
core egg salad ($9.50), which comes with arugula and tomato. The tuna and eggs are mixed together. It might sound strange, but the tuna adds a nice spot of brininess and saltiness to the eggs. It pairs well with the multigrain bread. Dean is planning to open
BLVD Noodles down the street by the start of November, and a 30,000-square-foot brewery and music spot on Fletcher Parkway shortly after that. It’s a lot to do, but the high
quality of food at Sheldon’s and the way he has made it fit into the local landscape makes me optimistic. by Patrick Henderson
That time a chef brought me dinner In July, chef Kathleen Wise moved on after nine years cooking for the popular — and
well-documented — late-night restaurant Starlite. Last week, she turned up at my front porch with a paper bag she’d packed with a three-course vegetarian meal. Not because I did anything
special. I just placed an order with the low-fi delivery ser- vice Wise started this sum- mer, called Eat My Box. And if that vaguely profane word- play wasn’t enough, rather than summon this via app, I ordered Eat My Box from the website
RusticAsCluck.com. I find it all hilarious, even
if the bagged delivery under- cut the literalness of the joke. The gist is that Wise comes up with a weekly menu featuring vegetables she grew herself, picked out at the farmers’ market, or sourced from a favored family farm. A $25 order placed by Monday night nets dinner for two dropped off on Wednesday. Wise updates the menu each
week with dishes reflecting the season, whether that means certain timely vegetables or cultural events, like a recent German-inspired meal for Oktoberfest. She collects her
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