was the first to branch off. But there is a lot of work involved in a restaurant and it’s a lot easier having three of us than one. I don’t know how he runs the restaurant on his own,” said Chris.
The brothers, along with the help of some of their children and wives, run both businesses which are open seven days a week.
“We used to close on Mondays years ago and I don’t know what happened. That was such a good thing to have one day off a week. Most restaurants close on Monday so we thought there was an opening there,” Chris said.
Two family businesses translates into incredibly long days, especially in the summer which peak tourism time.
The DeVitos start baking bread and desserts at 6 a.m., then go across the street to catch and clean fish, and then head back the restaurant. By the time they close and clean the restaurant, it’s 10 p.m. That’s a normal work day.
The sons each take turns “being the boss” for a week and those weeks are grueling.
“When you are a boss you run the trout farm, do all the ordering for the restaurant, bake bread. It’s about 110 hour work week. It takes two weeks to recover from it. We’ve been doing it since the first years we were open. It’s really worked for us and if it’s not broke, don’t fix it,” Chris said.
With three decades in the restaurant business, they amassed a loyal following within a 250-mile radius.
The key to their success is they oversee every aspect of the operation and quality, said Steve.
Of course, homemade classic DeVito's Restaurant in Harrison serves trout from its own trout farm.
Italian food, fresh trout, and excellent desserts have something to do with it, too.
The Fettucine DeVito is divine: egg noodles covered in green olives and garlic sautéed in olive oil and finished with heavy cream and cheese. You can’t go wrong with the homemade ravioli. Even though they are known for Italian classics like Fettucine (there are three varieties) and Chicken Parmesan, the trout outsells the pasta.
The Trout Almondine is one of their signature dishes: butterflied trout deep fried and served with almond butter sauce.
The DeVito’s charbroiled trout is the restaurant’s best seller and it is simply a fresh piece of Rainbow Trout sprinkled with their own seasoning and broiled with butter. The flavors are simple, clean, and fresh.
Jim was a baker and taught his boys to concoct the desserts they are famous for: the chocolate bourbon pecan pie has a flaky crust, pronounced bourbon flavor, chunks of chocolate chips, crunchy pecans and a smooth custard filling. It is less sweet than traditional pecan pie and every bite is a pleasure.
Chris describes the coconut cream pie as “out of this world” and it is by far the most popular dessert.
The loss of traffic from the highway was not the only challenge to the business. In 2000, the building was destroyed by a fire. At that point, the DeVito brothers were leasing the building so they bought the land and then reopened a larger restaurant a year later.
“Maybe one day we’ll actually own the restaurant,” laughed Steve.
While DeVito’s has been around for 30 years, at this point there does not seem to be a third generation who wants to take it over.
“I don’t think any of them want any part of it. They have seen how much work is involved in it so I think when we are done, it’s going to be over,” Chris said. “But who knows what the future holds. Every day is an adventure in the restaurant business.”
Jim DeVito passed away 15 years ago but remained an integral part of the operation until his death.
He left behind a culinary legacy that his sons continue.
“I think it’s amazing that three brothers have worked together for 30 years,” said Steve. “I have friends that couldn’t even go for a ride with their brothers, let alone work together. We’ve done it for 30 years and it works for us.”
DEAN CURTIS FOR LIVING WELL
12 Living Well i August/November 2016
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36