LIVE24SEVEN // Travel
Balcony of Bordeaux RELAIS & CHATEAUX HOTEL, LE SAINT-JAMES
A short flight and taxi ride and we arrived in the quaint village of Bouliac, which has long drawn gourmets and gourmands – those who love art and art de vive. Aptly named the ‘Balcony of Bordeaux’, this village affords incredible views across Bordeaux and is home to a contemporary Relais & Chateaux hotel, Le Saint-James, which I was excited to review. Being night time, all the incredible individual pieces of art and quirky statues that make your walk to reception distracting and entertaining, were lit up dramatically, whilst the glass wall showcasing the coveted cookery school to the side of reception lay dormant but impressive.
In 1989, one of Boulliac’s most beautiful 18th century farmhouses, an elongated longere characteristic of the region, became a hotel and restaurant and under the expertise and creativity of renowned architect, Jean Nouvel, the very stylish and unobtrusive Le Saint-James was born.
Retaining all the rustic charm, he set about designing four pavilions, each connected to the original building, to create the hotel’s guest rooms. Inspired by the tobacco barns of yesteryear, he also artistically decided to have the longere and pavilions open out onto the natural surroundings and vineyards, generating the sensation of living, eating, sleeping and relaxing in the very heart of the vineyards. Such was the success of the design that it is now a listed aspect of France’s 20th century architectural heritage by the Ministry of Culture.
Friendly staff greeted us at reception and showed us to our room, as well as highlighting to us that our table in Café de L’Espérance over the road was waiting for us! After a long Friday at work, we were ready to eat, but not before we’d dropped our bags and checked out where we would call home for a few days. The walk to our room was an interesting one, contemporary art hung on the walls of the corridor that wound its way through the hotel, passed the bar area and the opening to the Michelin restaurant – more on that later – and past the theatre-style kitchens that have automatic doors that open to allow ease of access and glass windows so you can watch the culinary excellence inside unfold.
And to our room, the Harley Suite, aptly named thanks to the Harley Davidson bike that is parked in the super contemporary, yet extremely comfortable, room which also boasts a bed so high it was both an effort and pleasure to climb into. The reason for its height is obvious, as combined with floor to ceiling glass windows it ensures that you savour the breathtaking views across the vineyards and balcony of Bordeaux beyond.
More on the room later…our stomachs demanded we take that short walk – literally a couple of hundred yards down the road – to the centre of Bouliac to the annex of Saint-James, Café de L’Espérance, a typically French and exquisitely inviting eatery. Old lamps outside screamed French chic, whilst wonderful aromas and French chitter-chatter drew us in to our table by the window where a typically French menu awaited on a blackboard propped up against the bar.
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The food was faultless; we enjoyed wonderful sharing steaks surrounded by enough sauté potatoes to feed an army, whilst rustic French bread and expertly chosen red wine helped wash it all down. Outside, on the covered patio area (heated in the winter), were two indulgent, unlimited buffets, one for starters and one for desserts. We’re not just talking a salad bar here, we’re talking fresh fish, huge juicy prawns and salads that a clever chef has created, both healthy and indulgent, whilst a huge glass fridge houses everything from French éclairs to crème brulées, cheesecakes and rum babas with the instruction to take what you want! This ultra-relaxed bistro with delightful staff is in stark contrast to the formal dining experience we were to equally enjoy the following evening in the Michelin restaurant inside the hotel, but on reflection I loved and admired both for very different reasons.
With full stomachs and feeling slightly tipsy on red wine and banter with the staff, we made our way to the Harley Davidson suite. I’m not sure whether the suite is more impressive by day or night? Huge glass windows afforded views out across the hotel’s own vineyards to Bordeaux, where lights and life itself created its own show as the city came alive in the distance. In the morning, huge patio doors allowed direct access to our own outdoor furniture to sit and admire those views in the fresh air with bird song for added pleasure.
This hotel is the perfect place to enjoy a relaxing break, especially if you’re a foodie or wine lover or connoisseur. We enjoyed a wine lesson with the Sommelier who has twice won coveted awards, the youngest in France to do so, yet his knowledge and passion was made more evident by his sense of humour and down to earth approach to wine, which is there to be enjoyed.
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