entro, ensembre, fall/winter 2014-15


FIVE C BASICATEGORIES:


Revolution/Evolution: An examination of the continuous


reinvention and the historical context of the “fashionable man.” Curators explained the idea of clothing as a revolution this way,


“Fashion is used to express anti-authoritarian currents, such as the French Revolution in the 1780s and ‘90s and the punk movement in the 1970s and into the 1980s. Radical revolution- aries in France utilized new styles, textiles


and colors to express political sentiments and 200 years later, “punks” embraced bricolage and do-it-yourself personalization to create anti-authoritarian fashion statements.”


East/West:


In this second theme, the heavy influences on fashion between east and west are high- lighted. 17th and 18th century, upper-class Western men wore loose-fitting robes that many say were influenced by the T-shaped


kimonos of Japanese origin. India, China and Japan’s traders, brought back new, unique designs and materials, which eventually made it into western fashion trends.


Uniformity:


Though the concept of fashion may be lost to many as expressed in military uniforms, the standards set for quality, materials, cut and fit are easily transferred. Fabrics, tailor-


ing techniques, stylish details and embellish- ments were molded, stitched and steamed


into silhouettes that idealized the male body. Something that did not go unnoticed by 18th and early 19th century Saville Row tailors who crafted fine wools for their army and


navy clientel. Also, not to be lost on many a modern designer, who borrowed often from history’s design regiments.


zoot suit, united states, 1940-1942 30 RAGE monthly | APRIL 2016 macaroni ensemble: suit, italy, probably venice, c. 1770


spotlight history of mens fashions REIGNING MEN’S


punk jacket, united states, 1978-83


Page 1  |  Page 2  |  Page 3  |  Page 4  |  Page 5  |  Page 6  |  Page 7  |  Page 8  |  Page 9  |  Page 10  |  Page 11  |  Page 12  |  Page 13  |  Page 14  |  Page 15  |  Page 16  |  Page 17  |  Page 18  |  Page 19  |  Page 20  |  Page 21  |  Page 22  |  Page 23  |  Page 24  |  Page 25  |  Page 26  |  Page 27  |  Page 28  |  Page 29  |  Page 30  |  Page 31  |  Page 32  |  Page 33  |  Page 34  |  Page 35  |  Page 36  |  Page 37  |  Page 38  |  Page 39  |  Page 40  |  Page 41  |  Page 42  |  Page 43  |  Page 44  |  Page 45  |  Page 46  |  Page 47  |  Page 48  |  Page 49  |  Page 50  |  Page 51  |  Page 52  |  Page 53  |  Page 54  |  Page 55  |  Page 56  |  Page 57  |  Page 58  |  Page 59  |  Page 60  |  Page 61  |  Page 62  |  Page 63  |  Page 64