FASHION 101 spotlight lgbt art history 101
Teacher(s) Long dominated by gay men and then lesbians, it is
clearly the turn for trans-sensitive designers to inform and transform the fashion industry. We would look forward to hearing a panel discussion of trans issues in modern fashion design including designers Gogo Graham, Isis King and Saint Harridan’s Mary Going. It might be particularly instructive to include the work of the following subject to inform the discussion.
Teacher: Anne Burrell It can be said that all modern, celebrity chefs like
Anne Burrell, an out lesbian and frequent favorite on Food Network shows, owe their livelihoods and current popularity and profitability to two famous chefs: Julia Child and the chef, television personal- ity and food writer who inspired Child herself, James Beard.
Subject: James Beard (1903-1985). The man who once famously stated, “I believe
that if ever I had to practice cannibalism, I might manage if there were enough tarragon around.” Beard came to be considered by many the “father of American-style gourmet cooking,” as well as the father of American culinary scholarship. In addition to his many cook books (Beard on Food has been called one of the wittiest collection of stories about food ever written) and scholarly contributions to culinary arts, his legacy, which includes the James Beard Foundation Awards (otherwise known as the “Oscars of food” for excellence in cuisine, culinary writing and culinary education) solidifies him as the foremost name associated with culinary quality in the United States.
Subject: Jean Paul Gaultier (1952-present) Playing with gender stereotypes has never been a new “thing” in fashion, but if there ever was a worthwhile contributor to our proposed panel on transgender issues in fashion, it must be Gaultier, whose introduction of the men’s skirt on the runway in 1984 has been one of the high points of his notable career. Described by many of his peers as decadent and reckless, the “enfant terrible” of fashion was highly influential throughout the ‘80s for his high fashion streetwear and his artistic relationships with entertainers like Madonna and Minogue and filmmakers like Luc Besson. But, it was with good humor and uncharacteristic nonchalance that he has been able to shake up society’s gender norms in fashion. Consider, for example, how he discusses putting a man in a skirt: “Men, as well as women, can want couture designs; they can also desire luxurious clothes made by hand; I don’t believe that fabrics have a gender, any more than certain garments do.”
INTERIOR Design
Teacher: Nate Berkus Before there were the countless throngs of gay interior designers on HGTV... a lesbian led the charge in the field. How fun would it be to have Nate Berkus introduce us to this doyenne of design?
Subject: Elsie De Wolfe (1865-1950) De Wolfe is often referred to as America’s first interior decorator, she became famous for buzzing into
the homes of the rich and famous and eschewing the heavy Victorian brocades, dark and heavy furniture and clutter, instead replacing them with soft, warm colors and an appreciation for French elegance and antiques. One of her many design mainstays was the use of the trellised room. Her 1913 seminal book,The House In Good Taste was innovative, as she developed the concept of design as a “lifestyle,” encouraging her readers to adopt a life of “simplicity and suitability” and to “believe in plenty of optimism and white paint, comfortable chairs with lights beside them, open fires on the hearth and flowers wherever they ‘belong,’ mirrors and sunshine in all rooms.” She might just as well have concluded this influential work... “It’s a good thing.”
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RAGE monthly | APRIL 2016
Intro to COOKING
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