COLINTRAIVE HOTEL
already eating at the vintage tables, making the ambience all the more feel-good. We were staying over, in the best room, with
views over the water out to Bute. On the way up the sweeping staircase of this 200-year-old former coaching inn, we got a glimpse into the lovely dining-room, but since it was still winter we opted to eat in the cosy bar. This, I suspect, made things slightly easier for
the convivial owner Patricia Watt, who, having given her chefs time off over the winter period, was on her own in the kitchen. Incredibly, she’d made everything herself from scratch. No mean feat given that her menu is far from minimal. My plate of fresh Kyles of Bute langoustines
(£10.50), caught in the bay in front of the hotel, were hotly pan-fried and arrived smothered in garlic butter on a bed of peppery rocket. Partner’s super-king scallops, hand-dived from Loch Fyne (£10.50), were served out of the shell and piled over toasty cubes of Stornoway black pudding. So far, so delicious. Other tempting options included a seafood chowder, a traditional prawn cocktail and a parma ham and fig salad with walnuts. There was a huge range of mains, from Bute
beef-and-Guinness pie to a salad of hot-smoked salmon by Ritchies of Rothesay; but we decided on two of the specials. My fishy pie (£13.95) was a little more fluid than I’d have liked; the potato topping and the creamy filling were just slightly too soft for my taste. But it was packed with smoked haddock and prawns and tasted absolutely delicious, with just the right amount of cheese to give it a salty kick. A gorgeous fresh green salad, served separately as part of the order, provided a welcome crunch that felt like pure goodness. Partner went for the linguine pescatori
field FACTS
PRICE Dinner for two, with drinks: £60.85. RATING
The Colintraive Hotel, Colintraive, Kyles of Bute, Argyll Tel: 01700 841207 www.
colintraivehotel.com
wCate Devine is food riter at The Herald
(£15.25), with mussels, crayfish tails, prawns and garlicky tomato sauce, which went down well with Ms Watt, as it is her mother’s recipe. Served theatrically in a high-tied flourish of foil, this was the dish that made the meal: intensely flavoured with just a hint of aniseed, the fishy flavours shone through the steamy pasta, which held its own with a pleasing al dente bite. Desserts sounded fine: all £5.75, there was
sticky toffee pudding with home-made ice- cream; chocolate fudge cake with hot choc sauce; or – more interestingly – a hot croissant pudding laced with apricots and Amaretto. I knew they’d be good, but we didn’t feel like risking the healthy satisfaction we’d experienced so far. Colintraive is unpretentious and the kind
of place that’s difficult to leave. By the end of our short stay, we felt settled and even that we may have made some new friends. By anyone’s standards, that’s something that money just can’t buy.
chef’SCHOICE Gary Goldie, head chef at garygoldie@thequeens in Oban, picks his top Scottish restaurants
THE ALBANACH, LOCHINVER, SUTHERLAND I eat and stay here for the incredible atmosphere and hospitality. The seafood is fantastic and I was blown away by the mussel soup. I chose to celebrate
my birthday here, that’s how much I love it. 01571 844407;
www.thealbannach.co.uk
21212, EDINBURGH This is a great place to eat with other foodies. I am always impressed by the variations and combinations of food on offer. That and the fact that Paul
Kitching is a thoroughly nice guy. 0845 222 1212;
www.21212restaurant.co.uk
ASIA STYLE, GLASGOW I go here whenever I visit Glasgow. The Malaysian pancake is just amazing, as is the crab. It’s also a great place to go for a takeaway if you fancy a few beers
at home with your mates. 0141 332 8828
ITADAKI ZEN, OBAN This organic and vegan Japanese restaurant does tasting menus full of little delights. The miso soup is a highlight and I love the tofu, veggies, seaweed and sesame
flavours. They also have restaurants in London, Tokyo and Sapporo. 01631 565942;
www.itadakizen.com
BRAIDWOODS, DALRY I’m from Ayrshire, so I like to eat here when I go home to visit my family. That’s if I can get a table! This Michelin starred restaurant is really faultless, using the finest
ingredients available from this part of Scotland. 01294 833544;
www.braidwoods.co.uk
KNOCKINAAM LODGE, PORTPATRICK, DUMFRIES AND GALLOWAY We celebrated my wife’s birthday here. I admire the simplicity in the menu. Each time I’m there one thing just blows me away. It can be as simple as a square of carrot,
but the food is always packed with flavour. 01776 810435;
www.knockinaamlodge.com
YOURSAY
what do you think of Gary’S choiceS? let uS know at
WWW.SCOTTISHFIELD.CO.UK
WWW.SCOTTISHFIELD.CO.UK 145
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