LOCH FYNE RESTAURANT & OYSTER BAR We had a table in the room behind the main
restaurant, now a bright and airy space hung with vintage watercolours and woodcuts from Noble’s personal collection. With a subtle sound- track featuring Scots chanteuse Emeli Sandé, we caught the mood and found ourselves tuned into the new, modern vibe. I embarked on what was to be a culinary
rediscovery of sorts, with a classic fish soup (£8) served in a wide bowl rather than one of those horrid mini tureens that tend to smother its contents. Thicker than expected, the soup was a deep vermillion colour and had a delicious undercurrent of crab-infused fish stock. The croutons were unusually thin-cut, which helped melt a generous helping of Gruyere served separately in a little bowl, with another filled with homemade rouille. Was this the best fish soup north of Hadrian’s Wall? Close. Partner’s chowder (£8), though, was truly
sensational: a huge rib-sticking plate packed with smoked haddock pieces interspersed with potato and leek. Behind its creamy depths, there was a sturdy scaffold of fish stock; a sophisticated version of the rustic dish. He followed with three fat scallops in their
shells, each with their own little venison sausage by Churchill’s (£18). It wasn’t an immediately obvious pairing, but it worked, with the improbable sweetness of the mollusc meshing well with the gamey depths of the sausage; a match made in localism heaven. He described it as sweet and rough; I prefer yin and yang. My Gigha halibut and chorizo stew (£22)
also looked good on the plate, the brilliant white of the fish a dramatic contrast to the deep red. The soft and yielding flesh delivered the gentlest hint of the sea and wasn’t drowned out by the robust notes of the spicy sausage; in fact, if anything the stew itself was underseasoned. Partner said he’d never manage pudding
FIELD FACTS
PRICE Lunch for two, without wine: £74. RATING
Loch Fyne Restaurant & Oyster Bar, Clachan, Cairndow Tel: 01499 600482
www.lochfyne.com
wCate Devine is food riter at The Herald
but, to borrow the classic panto tradition, oh yes he did. He was rewarded with a dish topped by a tumble of buttery crumbs finished with almonds, and his spoon was soon lost in its cinnamon-y, apple-y depths. My triple helping of dense, milky Cream
O’Galloway vanilla ice-cream with honeycomb almost sent me into sugar-fuelled orbit. I loved the openness and honesty of this
food, and its swift, expert delivery by front- of-house staff. Loch Fyne Oysters has been happily rejuvenated, and not just with a coat of whitewash. Its lights burn brighter, its open spaces give a greater sense of cohesion than previously, and its menu brings it bang up to date. As we left, somewhat reluctantly, we had a strong sense that the colourful late founder would have thoroughly approved.
chef’SCHOICE Paul Kitching, chef-patron of Michelin-starred 21212, on his six favourite Edinburgh restaurants
L’ESCARGOT BLEU So French it hurts – why this place doesn’t have a Bib Gourmand is a mystery. From its remarkable flavours to its fantastic French cheeses to its Dubonnet posters,
L’Escargot Bleu is stunningly authentic. This is the food French people have eaten for centuries. 0131 557 1600;
www.lescargotbleu.co.uk
GREYWALLS, GULLANE, EAST LOTHIAN It’s outside Edinburgh but I love the nostalgic, Sharrow Bay feel of this place. With its technically accomplished and classic French cuisine, the food is Michelin-star
quality, and the breakfast is simply the best I’ve ever had, anywhere in the world. 01620 842144;
www.greywalls.co.uk
GALVIN BRASSERIE DE LUXE This hidden gem in the Caledonian Hotel has in Fraser Allan a super-accomplished chef. It’s flown below the radar, but is top-quality French bistro food.
0131 222 8988;
www.galvinrestaurants.com DOME
One of the Seven Wonders of Edinburgh, it’s like a Scottish Cistine Chapel. I love the dark bar on the left just inside the front door: when you step inside
its like the opening scene from The Godfather. It serves decent comfort food, but I adore it because it has this amazing Transatlantic vibe. 0131 624 8624;
www.thedomeedinburgh.com
TREACLE
Individual and unforgettable, its banquette seats with animal skins make you feel like you’re entering a Neanderthal cave. I like the Thai influence, which
means that everything’s got a kick. All the dishes seem to be just a little different, just a bit better. 0131 557 0627;
www.treacleedinburgh.co.uk
LIONNESS OF LEITH Cool, welcoming, unpretentious gastropub in a dumpy area. Top cocktails, good vibe, superb food – the sort I wish I’d cooked when I was younger. 0131 629
0580;
www.facebook.com/Thelionessofleith YOURSAY
what do you think of PauL’S choiceS? Let uS know at
WWW.SCOTTISHFIELD.CO.UK
WWW.SCOTTISHFIELD.CO.UK 135
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