RESTAURANT REVIEW


Coming out of its shell


A new culinary director has breathed fresh life into the original Loch Fyne Restaurant & Oyster Bar in Argyll, producing food to match its rejuvenated appearance


WORDS CATE DEVINE


Above: The restaurant has been smartened up both inside and out, and the freshness extends to the kitchen’s clever cooking.


the clouds like a beacon. As we gazed slack- jawed at the transformation of the place from pine-clad and dated to open-plan and modern, its exterior all blue-and-white paintwork and artfully distressed driftwood, we were warmly welcomed aboard by the genial general manager, recently appointed by Loch Fyne’s new culinary director, Roy Brett. The shop now runs directly into the


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restaurant, the old fishing boat in the reception area has been dispatched to Inveraray, the booths have been removed to make way for


ollowing the coast round from Arrochar, we found the famous Loch Fyne Restaurant & Oyster Bar shining through


light oak and pastel tweed furniture, and there’s a brand new state-of-the-art kitchen. Beautiful artisan stoneware crockery com-


missioned from local potter Tom Butcher adds a note of 1980s nostalgia and helps to recall the heyday of the late co-founder Johnny Noble. His niece, Virginia Sumsion, is still active in developing the business here, a separate operation to the Loch Fyne Restaurants chain, which now has over 40 outlets across the UK. Brett – who trained with Rick Stein and has


his own Edinburgh seafood restaurant, Ondine – has devised a menu to showcase seafood not only from Loch Fyne but also from surrounding waters at Tobermory, Oban and Islay.


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