SMOKEHOUSE & BAR It’s hard to believe, but until 2011, Hillcrest had a
void that sorely needed to be filled. With meat. Since the opening of Brazen BBQ, famished locals have come to rely on this 5th Avenue sanctum for hearty helpings of classic American barbecue, Texas favorites and Louisiana-style dishes. San Diego-native, President and Pitmaster John
Bracamonte and Philadelphia-born Vice President and Executive Chef Brad Thomas originated the initial concepts for this unique eatery in 2008 while working at San Diego International Airport. Far from the misconception of sloppy, heavy and overpowering plates that barbecue has inherited, the
BRAZEN BBQ by david vera
not just a matter of ‘I’m coming in to get ribs, beans and coleslaw’, we wanted to bring barbecue to a different level,” said Brad. “You have so many other options here to do anything you want, really.” A graduate from Johnson & Wales University in
Rhode Island, Brad reminded me of the importance of the restaurant’s “heart and soul.” “It all starts with that. Dry rub, hickory and applewood. That’s as traditional as it gets,” he explained. “Whatever we make, whatever it becomes in the kitchen, it all comes from our smoker. At this point the duo mentioned that it’s bad luck to have a smoker without a name. Theirs is named Miss Regina-Ann, tandem-named after each of the gentlemen’s wives. “We definitely scored some points with that,” quipped John. “It’s a rotisserie smoker from Missouri that holds 800 pounds fully loaded. We’ve done whole hogs for weddings in it. The slow-and-low process just locks the flavor in. With a smoke time of ten to 14 hours for brisket and between eight and ten for pork shoulder, it’s clear this is a special meal that you can’t just make at home. “There are a lot of places around here that
Brazen brand offers balanced flavors and mouthwater- ing textures that can only be achieved with the estab- lishment’s tank-sized smoker. “It’s different from some of the stuff you see out there that’s loaded up with sauce,” said John. “Oftentimes, with too much sauce, that’s the only flavor you taste. We have a philosophy about ‘layers of flavor.’ Take our ribs for example. When you bite into a rib, the first thing you should taste is the actual meat that you’re eating...a nice, subtle smoki- ness from the cooking process and a flavorful but not overwhelming rub on the top, which is called the ‘bark’ of the barbecue. “ Personal touches like the prominent hand sink in
the middle of the dining room—commonly seen in many Texas restaurants—remind you that you’re in for much more than just a California twist on ribs. A serious amount of know-how goes into every bite, “I’ve never pulled a paycheck doing anything but cooking,” boasted Brad who started working at the age of 14. “It’s
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sell chicken; if you put their chicken up against ours, I guarantee that ours is the juiciest you’ll find,” said Brad. We were started off our meal with theAtomic Buffalo
Poppers—cream cheese, corn and cheddar-stuffed jalapeños wrapped in bacon, hit with dry rub and smoked for two to four hours. It came as no surprise how fantastic these would taste. Just as Chef Brad said, the Slow-Smoked Chicken was incredibly juicy and flavorful. It’s no wonder these two finished “reserve grand champions” second overall competing in Las Ve- gas. The formidable“Build Your Own” platter of tender meats was presented to us alongside the Signature BBQ Sandwich. Certainly more animal than we could handle, it was more than a pleasure trying nonetheless. Luckily for us, two towering refreshers arrived from the Lost and Found Saloon: a frosty glass of brew and the dazzlingly unexpected heat of theBlazin’ Sunrise.
BRAZEN’S FIVE SIGNATURE SAUCES
SMOKEY LACE - one of two sauces that can be found table-top, slightly sweet fruit-based sauce with a vinegar finish. Best with pork.
B.R.A.G. SAUCE - also found at the table, it is bold, vivacious and slightly spicy. Recommended for chicken and brisket. B.R.A.G. is an acronym for the sauce’s key ingredients...which are known only by the operation’s top minds.
COMPETITION SAUCE - actually used in the duo’s competitions, a fruit-heat combo with a very different viscosity than the two table-present sauces. Good on chicken and ribs, it will soon join the previous two on tables.
SAVANNAH GOLD SAUCE - a versatile Carolina-style mustard/herb sauce with a vinegar finish. Not too sweet, it goes well with pork, wraps and brisket.
BARN BURNER SAUCE - very spicy, this fiery fluid complements any meat. It is featured during Wild Wing Wednesdays - a special of a dozen wings and a series of sauces ranging in heat levels from a cool- ing ranch to Barn Burner Sauce.
Brazen BBQ Smokehouse and Bar is located at 441 Washington Street and 5th Avenue. Sunday Brunch service begins at 9:30 a.m. For more information call 619.816.1990 or go
tobrazenbbq.com.
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