HAIR SINS
Diagnosis: An Itchy ’Fro
Whether you are rocking it in Prada or Primark, nothing will ruin your look like scratching your head like a woman possessed! “I can’t tell you the number of clients I’ve had who complain of itchy, fl aky scalps,” says Carl. “In Afro hair this can be a result of anything from dryness and styling infl ammation to infection and allergies.” And if you think you should limit shampooing, think again! Contrary to popular belief, washing your hair too infrequently, rather than washing your hair too much can cause scalp irritation – providing you are using the right products.
Nurse your tresses back to health
“Start by using a scalp-care shampoo once or twice a week to treat itchiness and calm irritation – natural ingredients like tea tree work well,” says Carl. Detergent residues can also be a cause of irritation, so give your skin a breather by avoiding any product containing moisture-stripping chemical ingredients like sodium lauryl sulphate – a cheap foaming agent used in shampoos, which is also found in industrial cleaners! Need a quick-fi x? World renowned hair guru, Philip Kingsley, recommends making your own anti-fl ake scalp tonic by shaking together mouthwash with an equal quantity of witch hazel (apply after washing and style as usual), but if that sounds like too much hassle use a scalp oil directly to the head every other day – you should see a difference with a week.
Diagnosis: Braided Madness
Braids, cornrows and weaves can look fantastic. But according to research in the British Journal of Dermatology, having too-tight twists, especially when combined with chemical relaxers, can cause permanent follicle damage and bald patches. Known in the hair business as ‘traction alopecia’ (where hair starts to thin around the hairline and continues to thin backwards), super-stylist Hector Obeng (
www.hectorsglobalhair.com) explains; “Having hair very tightly braided is a bad hairdressing method. The density of the extension braid or twist is heavier than the client’s own natural hair, meaning the weight and constant stress causes receding hair – especially if done repetitively over time.” And if you think you’ve got away with it so far, news just in! “Even short term stress can irritate the scalp, resulting in unpleasant rashes,” says Hector.
PRESCRIPTION
Mizani H2O Intense Night- Time Treatment, £13.85
Nurse your tresses back to health
Viviscal Hair
Fushi Organic Virgin Argan Oil, £10
Renewal System, £49.95
Save on tears by always going to a reputable stylist to have braiding done, and if you are already starting to see damage, act quickly. Switch styles that put strain on the hair root for a looser look and consider popping a hair- strengthening natural supplement to stimulate your scalp from within. “Argan oil and night treatments, which give your scalp a boost while you sleep, can be useful,” says Hector. “Or treat yourself to regular amino acid treatments. They work wonders as you need to build strength and take your hair to the gym so to speak!”
PRESCRIPTION
Green People Organic Base No Scent
Shampoo, £9.99
Moroccanoil Oil Treatment, £30.45
Organic APH Olive Oil Fertilising Shampoo, £3.89
afro hair
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Words: Emily Berryman Illustration:
www.istockphoto.com
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