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f the term ‘relaxing’ fi lls you with visions of Sahara-dry barnets and complicated upkeep, you’re not alone. More horror stories surround these chemical straighteners than nearly any other type of hair product or process on the market. But frustrated curlyheads rejoice – it’s time for a rethink! Techniques have moved on in leaps and bounds over the past few years, and due to changes in formulations and the introduction of nourishing natural goodies, a new generation of relaxers promise to be a whole lot kinder to our tendrils. Here’s how to bag all the benefi ts our straight-haired sisters enjoy – without the usual payback. “The relaxing process has improved


massively in recent years,” agree Afro hair specialists Jamie Stevens and Gemma Humes at Knightsbridge salon Errol Douglas (the salon of choice for supermodel Jourdan Dunn and actress Thandie Newton). “We’ve seen a vast improvement in the quality of


And... I


Dove Heat Defence Heat Activated Protect & Shine Mist, £2.49


relax!


ingredients used, and with extra conditioning agents now being added, the relaxing process is a far less harsh experience for your hair and scalp.” Feeling a little more temped? “Done correctly, the results can be amazing,” continues Jamie. “Hair will be more manageable, softer, shinier and feel healthier. It will also be more versatile in terms of styling and easier to maintain at home and on a day-to-day basis.” And that sounds pretty good to us!


Great When You’re


Straight So what should you consider before taking the plunge? Bear in mind that relaxing your hair is still a chemical treatment (effectively working in reverse to a perm, altering the structure of naturally kinky, curly hair into straight strands), so it is never advised that you do it at home. If done incorrectly, relaxers can cause permanent follicle


AFTERCARE TREATS


Ojon Dry Recovery Hydrating Smoothing Cream, £20


KeraCare Restorative Masque, £14


Lusting after shiny, smooth locks and easy styling? Take a deep breath and relax…


damage leading to breakage and irritation, or in more serious cases, nasty burns and baldness. It is therefore important that you visit a reputable salon with experience in relaxing. Get recommendations from friends or family and then think about the look you want to achieve. “Relaxers are great if you want to make your hair completely straight and smooth,” says Jamie, “but if you simply want to soften frizz and reduce curl size your stylist might suggest using a texturiser instead.” Relaxing also demands commitment, so think about whether time and money allow for this. “The recommended time in between relaxers depends on the length of hair,” says Gemma, “but for short hair you’ll be looking at visiting your salon every six to eight weeks, and for long hair between eight to 12. Texturisers can be used less frequently – sometimes just two or three times a year – so it’s best to seek the advice of a stylist as times vary with each individual hair type.”


Aveda Damage Remedy


Restructuring Shampoo, £18.50


The relaxing process in progress


22 afro hair


Words: Emily Berryman Main images: Jamie Stevens at Errol Douglas Relaxing image: KeraCare


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