A two-day window developed December 16th when conditions were considered ideal to reach the summit. The remaining fi ve started the trek at 4:30 a.m. in darkness using headlamps in minus 20 temperatures and strong wind conditions.
At 20,500 feet, Dean McLay again began having serious breathing diffi culty and fl uid build-up. He could go no higher. His wife Wanda continued to Independecia hut at 21,000 feet, before she turned around with Bill Marler. They picked up Dean and all three headed back down to the original lower base camp.
Savage, O’Sullivan, Dan Fogden and guide Skreslet attacked the fi nal 3,000 feet. The fi nal thousand is a steep rock gulley called the Canaletta covered in snow and ice requiring crampons to climb up. Again altitude sickness raised its ugly head and the nausea, dizziness and fatigue stopped Savage in his tracks, a heartbreaking mere 300 feet from the peak.
“I had hit a wall,” said a dejected Savage. “I couldn’t put one foot in front of the other any longer as I struggled just to get air into my lungs. All I wanted to do was close my eyes and sleep, a very dangerous situation and condition to be in. Laurie advised me I needed to stop for my own safety, so I had to sit there and watch as the remaining three carried on.”
O’Sullivan, Fogden and Skreslet completed the Peaks for Polio climb within the next hour, the photo of O’Sullivan and their Rotary banner proof to the world of their amazing accomplishment.
“Standing on the summit was one of the most emotionally draining moments of
my life and one that was highly spiritual, but a bit anti-climatic as well,” mused O’Sullivan. “I was on a high standing at 23,000 feet atop the Andes knowing there is no point any higher in the western world, but I also realized I couldn’t go any higher, there was no more climbing to be done, our goal had been reached. Then the reality of the situation hit home. The cold and wind was biting and we knew we needed to get down before we froze to death.”
The climb down was much easier. The fi nal four returned to high camp by 8 p.m. that night. The next day they and Maureen returned to Plaza Argentina to join up with the others. Just over two days after that they were all back in Mendoza, their two week expedition completed, their goal successfully reached.
“We spent two years in planning the expedition and our team raised between $50 - $60-thousand dollars,” stated a pleased O’Sullivan. “While I reached the top, I’m more proud of the fact that with the matching funds we will get from the Bill Gates Foundation, we raised enough money to inoculate 200,000 children against polio. It is a very signifi cant achievement.”
Planning has already begun for the next Peaks for Polio expedition up Aconcagua this coming December in 2010. O’Sullivan and Savage will not be among the climbers this time, but will lend their expertise to help organize the next one.
“I have unfi nished business with Aconcagua and I hope to return one day to complete that fi nal 300 feet, but right now we are looking for new people to sign up,” said Savage. “We hope to get 20 people representing different clubs and different parts of the country. We also hope each one can raise $50,000 which would allow us to generate a million dollars towards our goal. Rotary has raised $105 million so far and we have two years to get the remaining $95 million. We are confi dent we can do it.”
Anyone wanting to sign up for the climb, join Rotary or provide sponsorship to the next Peaks for Polio can do so by contacting Gord Savage at
peaksforpolio@gmail.com.
SPRING 2010 21
Photo of: Finbar O’Sullivan at High Camp
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