Johnnie Walker bar at the Saxon Hotel


has witnessed pivotal moments. Modern malls stand alongside shantytown housing, witness to both the progress and stagnancy that hit the country post-apartheid. Visitors can see Vilakazi Street – once home to two Nobel Peace Prize winners, Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu – visit a shebeen/bar, and the Hector Pieterson Museum, tribute to the fatal 1976 student uprisings. Township tourism is a sticky subject but ethical tours include the excellent bike or tuk-tuk tour from Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers, Urban Adventures’ Cycle Soweto and Phaphama’s tours. 12.00: Stop for lunch at Sakhumzi on Vilakazi Street for traditional African dishes, burgers and salads. 13.30: The Apartheid Museum deserves a good few hours, with its excellent displays showing the effects of the regime on citizens. It’s interactive, interesting and genuinely unmissable.


There’s a good cafe-restaurant for an afternoon pick-me-up. 17.00: Stop by Rosebank Mall’s art and craft market, open daily, for its good selection of souvenirs and gifts. Goodman Gallery is also on Rosebank, renowned for its contemporary art collection and open until 7.30pm Tuesday to Thursday (4pm on Friday). 18.30: End the day at the Saxon Hotel in the suburb of Sandhurst, renowned for its African art collection and gardens. Owned by the same family who lived there before it became a hotel in 1992, Nelson Mandela chose to write his autobiography here. Book ahead to eat at Five Hundred or Qunu Grill restaurants, or prop up the bar at Eighteen05, the first Johnnie Walker whisky bar outside Scotland. Alternatively, suggest Seventh Street in the suburb of Melville, a lively strip of bars and restaurants with a neighbourhood feel. TW


Urban Adventures cycle tour


50 • travelweekly.co.uk — 25 June 2015


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